A 6th century legend says the head of the saint lives somewhere within the mosque. If you can’t find the relic when visiting, you can certainly find the mausoleum of Saladin in a small garden beside the north wall.

Umayyad Mosque history

In 661, the Islamic Caliphate came under the rule of the Umayyad dynasty, which chose Damascus to be the capital of the Muslim world. The sixth Umayyad caliph commissioned the construction of a mosque on the site of the Byzantine cathedral in 706 used by local Christians who had also built a Muslim prayer room.

The caliph al-Walid’s new mosque completely demolished the basilica, although features such as the arches were recycled. When the Christians protested, the caliph allowed them access to the seized churches in Damascus. The mosque was completed in 715, shortly after al-Walid’s death and was dedicated to the great city.

The Abbasid dynasty came to power in 750 and moved the capital of the Caliphate to Baghdad. The Abbasids had no interest in Damascus and the mosque suffered under their rule. However, because it was undeniably a triumph of Islam, the building was spared from the Abbasid’s systematic destruction of all things Umayyad.

Umayyad Mosque today

Today, entry to this beautiful Islamic landmark is free, but be aware you can’t enter without being dressed modestly (for women, that means covering shoulders and hair). The best time to go is early in the morning or in the later evenings when the mosque is lit up against the night sky, as this popular religious spot can become over-crowded.

Getting to the Umayyad Mosque

Located in the Umayyad Mosque Square, the mosque is easily found on foot in central Damascus.

Occupied by many civilisations over time – including the Armenians, Greeks, Byzantines, Ayyubids and Ottomans – most of what stands today is thought to originate from the Ayyubid period.

Aleppo Citadel history

Around the middle of the 3rd millennium BC, a temple to the ancient Storm God Hadad stood on the citadel hill. The first use of the hill as a fortification however, in the form of a Macedonian acropolis, was probably during the reign of Seleucus I Nicator in the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. A temple once again stood on the hill – this time dedicated to Zeus – visited by the Roman Emperor Julian in 64 BC.

During the 7th century the population of Aleppo is said to have taken refuge in the citadel because the city walls were in a deplorable state. Unfortunately, invading Muslim troops took advantage of this weakness in 636 AD, when Aleppo was conquered. Later repairs were made to the citadel after a major earthquake.

In 944 the Muslims of the Hamdanid dynasty took Aleppo and made it their capital city, strengthening Aleppo Citadel only for the city to be largely destroyed in 962 when the Byzantines attacked.

In 1260 Aleppo Citadel was taken by the Mongols under Hulagu Khan and again in 1400 – this time under Timur. Almost all the buildings inside the citadel were destroyed.

Aleppo Citadel today

Still dominating the city, the Citadel is part of the Ancient City of Aleppo which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986. During the 2010s, the Citadel received significant damage during the lengthy Battle of Aleppo. Since early 2017, with repairs to damaged parts underway, Aleppo Citadel has been open to the public and boasts spectacular views over the bustling ancient city of Aleppo.

Getting to Aleppo Citadel

You should check with your government’s travel advice before heading to Syria. Nonetheless, Aleppo is only a 15 minute drive from Aleppo’s International Airport.

History of Nokalakevi

Known during ancient times as Archaeopolis (meaning “ancient town”), the city was an important centre within the Kingdom of Colchis and was occupied throughout the Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods and archaeological evidence has been found from all these cultures.

The city was the focal point of an intense struggle between Byzantine forces and those of the Persian Empire during the was these great power fought between 540-562 AD. The battle for Nokalakevi was chronicled by the Byzantine writer Procopius of Caesarea.

Nokalakevi today

Today visitors to the site can see a number of impressive remains, mostly dating back to the late-Roman and early-Byzantine period dating from the 4th to the 6th centuries AD. Chief among these are the remains of the massive Byzantine outer walls, built in the 6th century to resist Persian attack. Within this outer wall are the remains of two inner walls, dating to the previous two centuries.

Inside the defences are the ruins of the city’s citadel, a number of ancient churches – including the Church of the 40 Martyrs – and the small royal palace. Elsewhere within the Nokalakevi archaeological site you can find the remains of a Roman bathhouse as well as an underground defensive tunnel running under the river Tekhuri. Digs at the site have also revealed an ancient cemetery site, containing burials from throughout Nokalakevi’s period of occupation.

A small museum on the site gives more detail on the history of Nokalakevi as well as hosting various exhibits of artefacts found at Nokalakevi.

Getting to Nokalakevi

Nokalakevi village is located in the Senaki region, around 184 miles west of Georgia’s capital, Tbilisi. It’s best to travel by car. Nearby towns include Senaki (approximately 17 minutes / 9.7 miles to the south-west) or Kutaisi (approximately 1 hr 2 minutes / 32.6 miles to the east) – both via the Senaki-Nokalakevi-Bandza-Khoni road.