History of the Barclay de Tolly Mausoleum

A member of minor Baltic German nobility with Scottish ancestry (descended from Clan Barclay of Towie Castle in Aberdeenshire), Barclay enlisted in the Russian Imperial Army at a young age and participated in a number of campaigns against the Ottoman Empire and Poland during the second half of Catherine the Great’s reign.

Serving as a Major General in the 1807 campaign against Napoleon, Barclay skilfully commanded part of the rearguard at the Battle of Eylau, receiving a heavy wound to the arm. His exploits won him promotion to the rank of Lieutenant General and brought him to the attention of Tsar Alexander I.

Having narrowly avoided the amputation of his arm, Barclay returned to service during the Russo-Swedish War of 1808-09, which resulted in the incorporation of Finland into the Russian Empire. Barclay was appointed as the second Russian Governor-General of Finland.

Barclay was then appointed to head the Ministry of Military Affairs in 1810. With the diplomatic relationship between Russia and France deteriorating, Russia made preparations for a future conflict with Napoleon. Barclay was a talented military reformer, making logistical improvements to ensure the Russian army would be well-supplied with men and resources, establishing an espionage network throughout Europe and updating field regulations to simplify the chain of command.

When Napoleon began his invasion in June 1812, Barclay was appointed commander of the First Army. Heavily outnumbered, Barclay pursued a defensive scorched earth strategy – opposed by Bagration (commander the Second Army), and unpopular in the ranks and at court. Suspected of being a general traitor, Barclay lost his overall command to Mikhail Kutuzov.

At the Battle of Borodino, Barclay sought to redeem himself and exposed himself to great danger, rallying the troops at the crucial positions in the battlefield. After a bloody stalemate, Barclay persuaded Kutuzov to avoid another engagement with Napoleon before Moscow. Soon after, Kutuzov merged the First and Second Armies, leaving Barclay without an effective command. He left the army due to ill health, returning to his estate in southern Estonia.

However, when Kutuzov died in the spring of 1813, Barclay succeeded him to become commander-in-chief, distinguishing himself in the battles of Kulm and Leipzig, as an allied coalition of Russia, Prussia, and Austria drove Napoleon back to France. In 1814 he led a detachment of Russian soldiers into Paris, forcing Napoleon to abdicate.

In 1815 following Napoleon’s escape from Elba Barclay once again commanded the Russian contingent, but Russian soldiers arrived after Napoleon had already between defeated by Britain and Prussia at Waterloo. Nevertheless, Barclay was awarded the title of Knyaz (prince) – a title usually reserved for hereditary Russian nobility.

From 1815-1818 Barclay continued to serve as commander-in-chief despite failing health. In early 1818 he obtained permission from the Tsar to seek treatment in Germany, but died en-route. His embalmed body was transported back to Russia and buried according to his wishes at his estate of Beckhof despite the Tsar’s wishes of interring him in the Kazan Cathedral in St Petersburg.

In 1823 a neoclassical mausoleum was built to the design of architect Apollon Shchedrin. Inside the mausoleum is a grandiose funerary monument by sculptor Vasily Demut-Malinovsky. The caskets of Barclay and his wife Auguste Eleanora are placed in a vault beneath the mausoleum.

The Barclay de Tolly Mausoleum

The mausoleum is open year-round, but hours vary by season. Pre-booking is essential. The site is quiet and peaceful: there are rarely large numbers of visitors, and it’s a nice place to come and reflect. Don’t expect your visit to last any more than an hour, even if you’re a military history buff.

Getting to the Barclay de Tolly Mausoleum

The mausoleum is located deep in southern Estonia, on route 183, a few kilometres north of route 69. Buses running from Tõrva stop right outside the mausoleum if you don’t have your own transport.

Pirita Convent history

In 1407, the people of Tallinn received advice from two monks visiting from Vadstena Abbey in Sweden. It would take another decade to get the required permits to begin construction, which began in 1417. The church of Pirita Convent was finally consecrated on 15 August 1436 and had 13 altars, each dedicated to an apostle.

Pirita Convent would continue operating for some 150 years until the Protestant Reformation in Estonia in 1525, although the convent was allowed to remain functioning. Eventually the convent would suffer destruction at the hands of Russian forces in 1575 under Ivan the Terrible, whose troops sacked and looted the convent. After the attack the Pirita was abandoned while the surrounding land was used as a cemetery.

Yet despite being destroyed, the convent went on to become something of a national symbol when included in a Soviet-era film. The film tried to replicate life at Pirita and stressed the free will of the nation of Estonia against foreign forces.

Pirita Convent today

Today, the large façade, walls, cellars and graveyard survive to be a popular and attractive tourist destination as well as occasionally a concert venue during the summer. The partially restored medieval ruins are open all year round to visit, free of charge.

Getting to Pirita Convent

Nestled within the city suburbs, Pirita Convent is easily reached on buses 1A, 6, 8, 34A, 38, 114, 115, 173 and 174. The bus stop is just minutes walk from the convent ruins.

Tallinn City Walls history

The first wall around Tallinn was ordered to be constructed by Margaret Sambiria in 1265 and for that reason, it gained the name of ‘Margaret Wall’. This wall was less than 5 metres high and about 1.5 metres thick at its base. Since then, it has been enlarged and strengthened.

In the 14th century, inhabitants of Tallinn were required to turn out for guard duty, wearing their armour and showing their readiness to face off enemy invaders.

Tallinn City Walls today

Today, roughly half of the original towers still watch over Old Town, evoking images of heroic armour-clad knights. Many of the Town Wall’s towers serve as museums, for those wanting to dig deeper into the city’s history.

To get a look at the wall from the inside, head to these three towers at the northwest corner of Old Town. Here visitors can climb up from Nunna tower and explore the towers and wall, as well as enjoy a picturesque view of the red-tiled roofs of Old Town.

The best places to see the wall are the Patkuli viewing platform from up on Toompea Hill and Tornide väljak (Towers’ Square).

Getting to Tallinn City Walls

Located in the city centre, Tallinn City Walls are but a 5 minute walk from the main train station. There is also parking just around the corner off Gümnaasiumi street.

History of Tallinn Old Town

The Northern Crusades of the 13th century brought the Baltic territories closer to Europe than ever before. The Christianisation process and influx of German and Scandinavian landowners made the Estonian lands a truly interconnected part of the continent. Tallinn was greatly impacted by that change. Prior to the Danish conquest of the region, there seemed to have been a castle or small settlement where Toompea hill stands today. Henry of Livonia, a chronicler who followed the Teutonic crusaders to the Baltic shores, called the town Lindanisa, while the Icelandic Njáls saga mentioned a place named Rafala.

Following the crusades and the start of the Danish period, the first stone fortifications were built, with Tallinn growing to be the most important city of the Finnish Gulf. Called Reval by its German population, the name Tallinn came from Estonian and originally meant ‘Danish castle’. In 1285, the city became the northernmost member of the Hanseatic League, growing rich thanks to the trade routes between the rest of Europe to the west and Novgorod and Muscovy in the east. Almost 60 years later, the Northern Estonian territories were sold to the Teutonic Knights, with Tallinn becoming part of their realm.

The early modern period would see great change, with Lutheranism taking hold and the Livonian War (1558 – 1583) ravaging the countryside. In 1561 Tallinn, while facing the threat of Muscovite forces, decided to become a dominion of Sweden. Sometimes referred to as ‘the good old Swedish times’, the period under Stockholm would last for almost 140 years.

The Great Northern War (1700 – 1721) saw Russia take permanent control over the Baltic lands for the first time, while giving a great deal of autonomy to the Baltic German nobility and cities. Tallinn grew further in importance in the late 19th century, becoming a great industrial and shipping hub. This period also saw the city expand far beyond the medieval city walls.

Tallinn Old Town today

The Old Town is one of the best preserved medieval cities in Europe, with many of the buildings and fortifications surviving from the high medieval era. The Tallinn city walls are especially impressive, with 26 watchtowers looking down on the surroundings. Walking on the narrow cobblestone streets can make you feel as if you were in a fairytale, with one church after another breaking up the skyline.

One of the most impressive sights is St. Olaf’s Church, which is the tallest religious building in Northern Europe, towering at almost 400 feet (roughly 120 metres) into the sky. The old Rathaus should also not be forgotten, especially during December, when the annual Tallinn Christmas market is being held in the eponymous square next door.

On Toompea hill one can find the Estonian parliament and the Pikk Herman tower, which has become a symbol of the country’s independence. Close by there are two viewing platforms which provide stunning views over most of the medieval old town.

Getting to Tallinn Old Town

Located in the heart of the city, the Old Town can be accessed through multiple medieval gates on all directions. Tallinn has great public transport, making it incredibly easy to reach the Old Town from the ferry terminal, train station, airport and main bus station. The best way to experience the Old Town is by strolling through the historic streets by foot.

Toompea Castle history

Toompea has been the centre of power in Estonia for 800 years. The first recorded construction on the site of Toompea Castle was established in the 9th century AD, when a wooden castle was constructed by the local Estonian rulers. However, in 1219 the castle was attacked and conquered by a Danish force under Valdemar II.

The first stone castle was built on the site in 1227 by the German Knights of the Sword. Over the following centuries, Toompea Castle was a stronghold for the various regimes who ruled the region.

In 1710, today’s Estonia became part of the Russian Empire. A major construction phase was undertaken on the site by Catherine the Great, who built the Estonian Government Administration building in the castle.

In the eastern part of the castle complex, among other things, a baroque and neoclassical wing was added. It contained the governor’s offices and housing quarters. After the announcement of the Estonian Declaration of Independence in 1918, a building was erected on the site of the castle, in which the republic’s parliament was located.

Upon Estonian independence, new developments were brought to the Toompea Castle site and the new parliament buildings were unveiled in the early 1920s.

Toompea Castle today

Today, Toompea Castle reflects the numerous phases of its construction, with medieval fortifications blending into latter-period Czarist architecture and the early 20th century parliament building (the Riigikogu). Visitors can also see the famous Pikk Hermann tower, which stands 46m high and is an Estonian national icon.

Toompea castle and the surrounding old town are part of one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe. Nineteen of the original sixty six defence towers are survived. The old town is in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The castle is open to the public at no charge. There are also guided tours available.

Getting to Toompea Castle

Toompea Castle is a castle on Toompea hill in the central part of Tallinn. The nearest railway station is Balti jaam.

Toompea Hill history

The first stronghold is believed to have been built on the hill in either the 10th or 11th century by residents of the ancient Estonia. The late Iron Age fortified settlement was not permanently inhabited, but was used seasonally to guard the harbour and its marketplace. 

In 1240, the great cathedral was begun in the place it stands today (albeit much changed). During the same period, Toompea turned into the centre of provincial authority, clergy and nobility in Northern Estonia.

The Swedish Empire conquered Northern Estonia in 1561 and held it until the Great Northern War, when Tallinn was conquered by Russia in 1710. Toompea, designated a separate town, kept special rights and privileges which remained until 1889. 

The beautiful cathedral, in front of the Toompea Palace, was built during the period of Russification as a symbol of the tsarist rule and Russian dominance. It only just survived demolition in the 1930s.

Toompea Hill today

Today, Toompea is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing of Tallinn’s Old Town. Toompea is the heart of Estonian government and the seat of the Riigikogu (parliament), both of which are often simply referred to as ‘Toompea’. The Riigikogu meets at Toompea Castle, situated in the southwestern corner of the hill and topped by the Tall Hermann tower.

There are several viewing platforms around Toompea, which offer stunning views of the surrounding city.

Getting to Toompea Hill

Located on a hill in the centre of Tallinn, Toompea is hard to miss. There are 157 steps connecting Toompea hill to the town below, with the stairway coming out in Toompark.