For lovers of well-preserved Roman architecture Qasr Bashir is certainly a hidden gem. Standing within the solid walls of Qasr Bashir, you will certainly be able to feel the living history of life on the edge of the Roman Empire.

Abila in the Decapolis history

Abila was first occupied in the Bronze Age around 6,000 years ago, and remained in use to approximately 1500.

The Decapolis is mentioned in the Bible numerous times, including in relation to Jesus and his ministry, indicating its importance in the area’s history. An earthquake in 747 AD turned much of the thriving city into rubble however.

Though the site fell to ruin, there have been some spectacular discoveries made there that indicate its long and fascinating history. Archaeologists have painstakingly uncovered Byzantine churches, a monastic complex from the early Islamic period, Roman baths, a theatre, temples used to worship Herakles, Tyche, and Athena, miles of subterranean water tunnels, aqueducts, megalithic columns, tombs, city gates and various municipal buildings.

Abila in the Decapolis today

Abila has been excavated extensively for almost 40 years, and remains one of the most exciting archaeological sites in the region for two reasons. Firstly so much is yet to be excavated, and secondly much of what the resident archaeologists wish to dig up is already visible from the surface, teasing them.

For visitors there is also much to see, including the impressive ruins of a number of Byzantine churches and a bath complex, while excavation programmes also run for volunteers.

Getting to Abila in the Decapolis

Abila in the Decapolis is located in Jordan, around 10 miles north of Irbid, and can be reached by following the 35 road from the city. It is close to the village of Quwayliba and on the bus from Irbid – ask the driver to drop you off at the ruins.

Ajlun Castle history

A grand medieval castle commissioned by Saladin and built by his nephew Izz al-Din Usama, Ajlun Castle was a fortress designed to strike fear in the hearts of the Franks.

While the crusaders in Levant played cat and mouse with the great Saladin, his generals were preparing for warfare on their own terms – a war that would see the Franks destroyed at the battle of Hattin several years later in 1187. Arab military fortifications were strengthened as the years went by and Saladin worked hard to unite the Muslim forces.

An imposing stronghold, complete with moat, drawbridge and towers, Ajlun, itself, was built in 1184 but lost much of its military significance after the fall of Karak – a crusader strong hold in the South of Jordan. However, the castle continued to guard important trade routes into Syria and was consequently never allowed to fall into disuse – serving primarily as an administrative centre under Ayyubid and later Mamluk control.

Ajlun would even feature heavily during the wars between the Mongols and the Mamluk empire. The castle was occupied and severely damaged by the Mongol invaders before being reclaimed by the Mameluk Sultan Baibars after the Mongol defeat at the iconic battle of Ayn Jalut; where the remarkable Mongol advance would finally be turned back.

Later, after the Ottomans established their rule in the area, Ajlun Castle would continue its administrative role which lasted right up until the 19th century, when severe damage from an earthquake led to its abandonment.

Ajlun Castle today

Today, a visit to Ajlun Castle will immerse visitors into the culture of siege warfare and take them back in time to one of the most destructive periods in the region’s history. The site also holds the remarkable Ajlun Archeological Museum, housed inside the castle, offering fine examples of pottery and ceramics as well as other displays and artefacts from the region.

While spectacular views of Jordan are a feature of your visit, visitors can also experience the local wildlife in the nearby Ajlun Nature Reserve.

Getting to Ajlun Castle

Ajloun Castle is situated right on top of Mount ‘Auf also known as Jabal Auf. The castle towers above the historic town of Ajloun and is only 20 minutes from the Ajloun Forest Reserve – a beautifully conserved nature reserve with an array of wildlife.

Ajloun Castle is approximately 50 kilometers from the city of Amman which takes around one and a half hours by car. The city of Jerash is just a forty minute journey away via a picturesque route of olive groves and woodland.

Amman Roman Theatre history

Built during the peaceful reign of Antonius Pius around 140 AD (some sources claim it was during the reign of Marcus Aurelius) in the Roman city of Philadelphia – now Amman, Jordan – Amman Roman Theatre was a thriving cultural hub built into the hillside.

The south-facing stage was designed to be bathed in sunlight for most of the day while the audience seating remained shaded. The acoustics, as they are in virtually all remaining Roman theatre complexes, are excellent.

The standard three tier layout meant the rulers sat on the bottom, closest to the action, the military and assorted dignitaries took the middle tier and the general public had to squint from the top. The forum in front of the theatre was added by Commodus (famously played by Joaquin Phoenix in the 2001 film Gladiator), although now the only physical remains are a long Corinthian colonnade and some Roman paving stones.

Amman Roman Theatre today

Even today, theatrical and musical performances and other cultural activities are held in the theatre, restored in 1957, including the Amman International Book Fair and musical concerts – most notably the Al-Balad Music Festival. Visitors can also see the restored Odeon on the east side of the forum which could accommodate around 500 spectators and the Nymphaeum, an ornamental fountain dedicated to the water nymphs built in 191 AD.

Getting to Amman Roman Theatre

Situated in the Hashemite Plaza beside the Odeon Theatre, Amman Roman Theatre is easily found on foot while exploring Amman or by car. Raghdan Tourist Terminal with car parking is only minutes walk away.

History of Bethany Beyond the Jordan

This stretch of the River Jordan is believed to be extremely holy and it has been venerated as the site of the Baptism of Jesus since at least the Byzantine period, and religious sites have been built in the vicinity as a result.

Archaeologists began to properly excavate Bethany Beyond the Jordan in 1994 after a peace treaty between Jordan and Israel: following the 1967 Six Day War, it had been inaccessible to pilgrims and visitors. Through studies of locations mentioned in the Bible, medieval travellers’ descriptions, and local knowledge about the place of dipping, archaeologists unearthed this sacred spot.

The sites at Bethany Beyond the Jordan include many ancient baptism pools, churches, caves and wells, mostly dating to the fifth and sixth centuries AD and the remains of which can be toured today.

Bethany Beyond the Jordan today

Visitors can enter the baptism waters of the River Jordan (despite signs to the contrary), see Elijah’s Hill and explore the Visitor Centre. This is the only spot that the River Jordan can actually be accessed in Jordan. The supposedly holy waters of the river are decidedly murky in this day and age, but remain a big draw for dedicated pilgrims.

The site is open year-round and charges a modest entry fee which includes a one hour guided tour (choose from 7 different languages) and a compulsory shuttle bus ride. Qasr Al Yahud is on the other side of the river in the Palestinian Territories – it’s often much busier.

Getting to Bethany Beyond the Jordan

History of Church of Saint George at Madaba

This early Byzantine church in Madaba, Jordan holds the famous Madaba Map of the Middle East; a floor mosaic dating back to the 6th century AD depicting an area from Lebanon to the Nile Delta, and from the Mediterranean Sea to the Eastern Desert. It is the oldest known geographic floor mosaic in art history.

Most probably made by the Christian community of Madaba, it contains cartographic depiction of the Holy Land and especially Jerusalem which is the largest and most detailed part in the center of the map. It faces east towards the altar which coincides with the actual compass directions of locations.

After conquests and earthquakes, the mosaic was rediscovered in 1884, during the construction of a new Greek Orthodox church and underwent restoration by the Volkswagen Foundation in the 1960s.

In 1967, excavations in the Jewish Quarter of Jerusalem revealed the Nea Church and the Cardo Maximus in the exact locations depicted by the Madaba Map. In 2010, the discovery of a road running through the center of Jerusalem as shown on the map again proved its accuracy and priceless value for the archaeologists.

Church of Saint George at Madaba today

The church of Saint George is one of the most beautiful churches in the world and it’s one of the main places of worship and pilgrimage across Jordan. Decorated with sumptuous interiors, elegant colonnades and various mosaics, the Greek Orthodox Basilica of Saint George hosts the mosaic map of the holy land.

Note that on Friday and Sunday mornings the church opens at 7am for Mass (visitors are welcome); viewing the map at these times is not permitted.

Getting to Church of Saint George at Madaba

The church is roughly 38 kilometres south of the city of Amman in Jordan. If travelling by car from here, take route 35 southbound (40 minutes approx.) until you reach Madaba.

History of Jerash

Jerash formed part of the Roman province of Syria following General Pompey’s conquest of the region in 64 BC. It later became one of the 10 cities of the Decapolis league, flourishing and growing wealthier over two centuries of Roman rule.

During this time, Jerash underwent several rounds of reconstruction, much of it occurring in the first century AD. One such occasion was in 129 AD, following a visit by the Emperor Hadrian. It was after this visit that Hadrian’s Arch or the ‘Triumphal Arch’ was built, the ruins of which can still be seen in the southern part of Jerash outside the archeological park itself.

By the third century AD, Jerash had reached its peak as a thriving centre of trade with a population of up to 20,000 people – even awarded the status of being a colony. However, this success was soon followed by Jerash’s slow downfall.

Several events over the next centuries, including the destruction of Palmyra in 273 AD, pillaging of its temples to build Christian churches under the Emperor Justinian in the 6th century and the Muslim conquest of the region in the 7th century all contributed to Jerash’s decline. This was further exacerbated by an earthquake in 747 AD. In fact, notwithstanding a brief 12th century occupation by Crusaders, Jerash had fallen and lay deserted by the 13th century.

Jerash today

Today, tourists flock to see Jerash’s extensive and impressive ruins, including the Temple of Artemis and the Forum with its large ionic columns. Jerash’s original main street, the Cardo, runs through the centre of the site and, with its visible chariot marks and underground drainage system, is fascinating in its own right.

Other must-see aspects of Jerash include its still-functioning 3,000 seat South Theatre built between 90-92AD during the reign of Emperor Domitian, its 2nd century AD North Theatre and its Nymphaeum fountain. Visitors can also see many of the artifacts found during the excavation of this site at the Jerash Archeological Museum.

Getting to Jerash

Jerash is situated approximately 32 miles north of Jordan’s capital Amman, making it an easy day trip from the city.

Public minivans run frequently from Amman to Jerash so there’s no need to join an expensive tour. By car, the journey takes around 50 minutes via Al-Urdon St. and Route 35. Alternatively, take a taxi to Tabarbour Bus Station (North Bus Station) and then get a bus to Jerash which takes you to near the entrance to the ruins.