History of Acatitlan

Though a huge and impressive structure, the site itself is a little misleading, having been significantly reconstructed in the 1960s.

Probably inhabited since the 12^th century, the site was later part of the area dominated by the Aztecs before the arrival of the conquistadors. The name ‘Acatitlan’ translates from Nauhautl as ‘the place among the reeds’, and the site is thought to have been dedicated to Tlaloc, the god of water and rain.

After the conquest of the Aztec Empire, Acatitlan was largely abandoned and the pyramid itself fell into decline as it was plundered for masonry. The remains of the pyramid were consumed by the land, buried under mud, plants and debris.

The site was ‘rediscovered’ in the 20th century, and a huge amount of reconstruction work was done on the pyramid in the 1960s by Eduardo Pelayo Moreno, an architect and archaeologist. Its very ‘complete’ appearance today is perhaps misleading therefore. The reconstruction was controversial at the time as it was not done entirely truthfully to how the original would have appeared.

Acatitlan today

The pyramid of Acatitlan is located in a small park in the heart of the modern town and is quite a surprising location to stumble upon. There is a small museum on site with further information about the history of the settlement and various Prehistoric artefacts. Closed Mondays.

Getting to Acatitlan

The pyramid is located in the northern suburbs of Mexico City: you’ll need to take several buses to get here from the Centro Historico, or else hop in an Uber, although bear in mind the traffic in Mexico City is often terrible, especially during rush hour.

History of Alhondiga de Granaditas

In 1810 the priest and leader of the revolution, Miguel Hidalgo, led a campaign to capture Guanajuato City. At that time, the Spanish began using Alhondiga de Granaditas as a fortress in which to shelter, an action which initially proved quite effective. However, Hidalgo then ordered a miner called Juan José de los Reyes Martínez, known as ‘El Pípila’ to set Alhondiga de Granaditas on fire. After strapping a slab to his back for protection from enemy fire, El Pípila did just that. The result was the massacre of those inside Alhondiga de Granaditas and doubt by some as to whether to continue with the fight for independence.

The Mexicans managed to take Guanajuato City, but by the following year the Spanish had recaptured it and exacted revenge on the rebels. Four of the movement’s main leaders, namely Hidalgo, Juan Aldama, Mariano Jimenez and Ignacio Allende were beheaded and their heads displayed on the walls of Alhondiga de Granaditas. The message was clear –rebellion would not be tolerated.

In the nineteenth century, Alhondiga de Granaditas became a prison and today houses a museum, Museo Regional La Alhóndiga de Granaditas.

Alhondiga de Granaditas today

The museum contains colonial exhibits and those about the Mexican struggle for independence as well as some about the pre-Colombian era. It also houses numerous pieces of art, including murals by José Chávez Morado on the staircase. The museum is also a regional museum for Guanajuato, so expect to find an eclectic mix of objects inside.

Getting to Alhondiga de Granaditas

Alhondiga de Granaditas is located just outside the centre of Guanajuato, a short walk from the historic centre. Walking is by far the most convenient method of transport as the historic centre is a winding maze of roads! Guanajuato is about an hour from the city of León, or a 5 hour journey from Mexico City, traffic dependent.

History of Angostura Battlefield

The battle occurred on February 23, 1847 near the town of Angostura: American forces under the command of General Zachary Taylor. had invaded north-eastern Mexico, taking Monterrey and Saltillo. Mexican forces commanded by General Antonio López de Santa Anna marched north from San Luis Potosi to fight the invaders. The forces clashed outside the town of Angostura, and despite being massively outnumbered, heavy American artillery fire saw off the Mexican defence. The Mexican army suffered a heavy defeat and retreated, dispirited, during the night

Angostura Battlefield today

Today a small memorial marking this important battle can be seen just off the main road in Angostura. There is also a museum dedicated to the battle in nearby Saltillo.

Getting to Angostura Battlefield

The battlefield memorial lies just south west of Saltillo, off Ruta 54. It’s most easily accessed by car, although you could get a taxi, colectivo or bus from Saltillo.

History of Calakmul

A major rival to the city of Tikal, Calakmul is believed to have primarily been built between 600BC and 250AD, although the two cities became rivals primarily in the sixth and seventh centuries AD. At its height it was thought to have had estimated to have a population of 50,000, spanning over 27 square miles.. However, as with many cities in the region, Calakmul was slowly abandoned with the collapse of Maya power, around 900AD.

Once comprising of thousands of buildings and other structures, even today Calakmul is only partially excavated: the jungle is extremely dense and excavation is hard work. However, these ruins contain huge pyramids, temples and other structures which are truly awe-inspiring to behold, including the ‘Great Pyramid’ which is the tallest pyramid in the Yucatan and the largest Mayan structure discovered so far. Calakmul was far from sources of natural water so the Mayans built a system of reservoirs which are still used by archaeologists today.

Calakmul was ‘rediscovered’ in 1931 by an American botanist named Cyrus Lundell, who gave the site its name, Calakmul. Initial surveys were completed shortly afterwards, but the site remained untouched between 1938 and 1982, when archaeologists returned to the site. Ongoing excavation work continues today, and only a relatively small portion of the entire site has been uncovered or explored.

Calakmul today

The site is located deep in the jungle: it’s hot and sticky, so bring plenty of water and snacks as you won’t find any to buy this far into the jungle. Mosquito repellent is also useful!

The site will take several hours to explore, and to be honest it’s easy to spend an entire day here without trying. Wear sturdy footwear for the pyramids and climbing over ruins. The sweaty climb to the top of the Great Pyramid is particularly spectacular: you’ll be able to see across the top of the jungle canopy, and on a clear day, you might even spot El Mirador, over the border in Guatemala.

There’s a small archaeological museum on the road to Calakmul through the jungle which is worth stopping at, if only to aid your imagination in picturing what this site would have looked like.

Bringing a guide, or hiring one there is a good idea if you want a fuller picture of the site and how it operated in its Maya heyday. Jungle walks are also highly recommended, but it tends to be best to go with a guide.

Getting to Calakmul

Calakmul is in the southern reaches of Mexico, about 20km north of the Guatemalan border and buried deep in the jungle of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. It’s a trek to get here, which is why many think it feels quite so magical. The nearest town is Xpujil, about two hours drive away, which has basic amenities including accommodation for travellers, although this isn’t desperately easy to get to – you’ll need to find the right bus combination from either Bacalar or Chetumal.

Some firms run day trips from Campeche, which are something of a whirlwind but good if you’re short on time.