Onawe Peninsula history

At the shallow head of the harbour between Barry’s Bay and Duvauchelle lies the once fortified Ngāi Tahu pā, Ōnawe.

The Onawe Peninsula was the site of a bloody massacre when it was invaded by the Ngāti Toa chief, Te Rauparaha in 1832 following the sacking of Kaiapoi in 1831.

Maori chief, Te Rauparaha, sailed with warriors from his tribe from the North Island, down to the South Island in order to exact revenge and to conquer.

Situated on a peninsula the pā was surrounded by the sea at high tide and Te Rauparaha established his warriors on both sides of the peninsula prior to the Battle.

The peninsula had 3 defensive areas: an outer wall at the neck and two main citadels higher up the crest. This formed the main defensive area defended by ditch, bank and palisade. Two long protected trenches ran to springs on the western side of the pā for water supply, with canoes also utilised to store additional water.

The Onawe Peninsula was defended by 400 people, but stood little chance against the power of Te Rauparaha and there were up to 1200 people massacred. Few Ngāi Tahu survived the day, only the young and strong were taken for slavery, the rest were slain on the flax flats at Barry’s Bay and the Head of the Bay.

Onawe Peninsula today

The Onawe Peninsula is the plug of the ancient volcano and is sacred land to the Ngai Tahu tribe. Visitors can enjoy the wonderful views and walk around but are asked to refrain from eating on site in respect for its tapu status.

Getting to Onawe Peninsula

To drive to Onawe Peninsula, take Highway 75 between Christchurch and Akaroa, and turn off on Onawe Flat Road, which loops around the near end of the peninsula. The Onawe Peninsula can be accessed at low tide only and walking time is approximately 1 hour return.

History of Ruapekapeka Pa

Ruapekapeka Pa was the site of one of the last military confrontations between British forces and Maori tribes in the War of the North, a conflict which erupted over British policies seen as unfavourable to the Maoris.

The local Maoris spent months preparing for the battle at Ruapekapeka Pa. Knowing that the British had far superior firepower, their leader, chief Te Ruki Kawiti, created a formidable defensive area (or “pa”) which consisted of a network of trenches and tunnels.

In December 1845, the British arrived at Ruapekapeka Pa. They were faced with a significant challenge from the Maori and, despite the fact that they eventually managed to break through the defences, the Maoris escaped. Eventually, after some time, a peace was forged between the two sides.

The fact that no provisions or ammunition were left behind in the pā suggests that the Maori ‘escape’ was an organised withdrawal. The pā may have served its purpose and been abandoned. The defenders may also have hoped that the soldiers would be drawn into an ambush by Heke and his men in the dense bush outside the pā. On the other hand, Kawiti and his men may have taken what they saw as their best chance to escape.

To the British, the capture of such an intricately designed and well-constructed pā was a significant achievement – a tactical victory. Yet many consider the battle to have been drawn. Heke and Kawiti had escaped with their forces largely intact, and the terms of the subsequent peace settlement suggest that they may even have won a strategic victory.

Today, visitors can embark on a self-guided walk of the site, where the trenches dug by the Maoris are still visible.

Getting to Ruapekapeka Pa

From Whangārei, follow SH1 north for 35 km. Just past the Towai service station, turn right into Ruapekapeka Road and follow this for 4 km. You will see signs for Ruapekapeka and the carpark 300 m beyond the intersection where Ruapekapeka Road meets Kawakawa Road. The road is unsealed and narrow in places so take care.

The car park is signposted, and it can easily accommodate campervans.

History of the Edwin Fox

The Edwin Fox was first commissioned as a trader, but was soon being used as a troopship carrying soldiers and some civilians to the Crimean War. After the end of the war, she was again commissioned as a trader and carried alcohol and immigrants across the world, making her first voyage to the antipodes in 1856, the journey to Melbourne taking four and a half months.

After this, the Edwin Fox worked on the route between the Far East and the West Indies until she was again commissioned by the British Government to transport prisoners to the prison colonies in Australia. Preserved in the museum is a list of convicts transported by the Edwin Fox, including their crimes, ranging from fraud to murder.

After a period of time, during which the Edwin Fox was generally used as a trader, she was chartered for use as an immigrant ship, taking emigrants mainly from the UK and Ireland, to New Zealand. By the 1880s steam was making sailing ships obsolete, and freezers made it possible to transport New Zealand lamb further afield, so the Edwin Fox was fitted out as a freezer ship. Following this, this, she was towed to Picton, firstly as a freezing store, and finally as a coal bunker.

When the Edwin Fox had outlived her usefulness, she was left to rot ignominiously at Picton.

In 1965, the preservation society was formed, with the aim of saving the ship and moving it to dry dock for preservation of the hulk and putting it on show as an example of ships of her time.

The Edwin Fox today

A museum has been built to explain and explore this ship’s long and varied history from its building in India in 1853 to the remaining hulk you can see and explore today. There is an informative video in the museum.

The hull of the Edwin Fox is evocative as she lies now in dry dock, well signed and giving a feel of its history. The museum is well laid out, and is informative, but the ship itself is a wonderful piece of history.

The ship and museum are open daily between 9am and 3pm.

Getting to the Edwin Fox

The Edwin Fox is moored at Dunbar Wharf in Picton, which is at the northern end of South Island. Nelson is a 2 hour drive away, and Picton station is 2 minutes walk from the ship. Picton Station has connections to Christchurch, but be warned – it’s a long journey!

History of Waitangi Treaty Grounds 

It was in Treaty House at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds on 6 February 1840 that the founding document of New Zealand was signed. This document was the Treaty of Waitangi and was the result of a collaboration between a large number of Maori chiefs and the British.

This treaty was intended to protect Maori property from ever increasing numbers of settlers from Britain and France. Under this document, the Maori were given British citizenship and a guarantee that their land would not be taken from them. In return, the British had first refusal on any land which the Maori sold. It is important to note that the true meaning of the Treaty of Waitangi has always been highly contested.

Waitangi Treaty Grounds Today

Visitors to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds can see Treaty House, where the document was first signed, the Maori Meeting House, which represents the different tribes and is also host to powerful Maori cultural performances, a traditional Maori waka (canoe) and hangi (traditional cooking methods), and the visitor centre, with its information boards and exhibits.

The Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi is also on the site and contains a wealth of information about the documents, their actual signing, and their ongoing relevance

Set amongst lush native forest and gardens and with a stunning view over the Bay of Islands, there is also an art gallery and carving studio, which make for creative and scenic additions to what is an unforgettable and fascinating visit.

Getting to Waitangi Treaty Grounds

From the centre of Auckland, the site is reachable in around 3 hours 15 minutes via the State Hwy 1 road. From Whangarei, it takes an hour by car via the same road, or is a scenic 4 hour bike ride.