History of Abu Mena

The site was built in honour of early Christian martyr, Saint Menas of Alexandria, who died in 296 AD. Various 5th-century accounts give slightly different versions of his burial and the subsequent founding of his church, but essentially his body was taken from Alexandria on a camel, which was led into the desert beyond Lake Mareotis. At some point, the camel refused to walk any further – this was taken as a sign of divine will, and the body’s attendants buried it on that spot.

The tomb’s location was then thought to be forgotten until its miraculous rediscovery by a local shepherd, who is said to have seen a sheep healed by the site’s water and then used the water and dust from the tomb to heal sick people brought to him. Word of the shepherd’s healing powers spread rapidly, and the synaxarium (a book that includes short accounts on the lives of the saints) describes Constantine I sending his sick daughter to the shepherd to be cured. The book credits her with finding Menas’ body, after which Constantine ordered the construction of a church at the site.

By the late 4th century, it became a major pilgrimage destination for Christians. Small terracotta ‘Menas flasks’ were sold to pilgrims as containers for holy water, and are found widely around the Western Mediterranean, dating roughly from the century and a half before the Muslim conquest. Roman Emperor Arcadius ordered a major expansion of the facilities, and by the end of Late Antiquity, Abu Mena had become the leading pilgrimage site in Egypt, yet was destroyed during the Muslim conquests of the mid-7th century.

Abu Mena today

The site was first excavated from 1905-1907. There are very few standing remains, but the foundations of most major buildings, such as the large basilica church, are easily discernible as well as monastic buildings, a baptistery and Roman baths. The highlight is the stunning underground tomb of Saint Menas, adorned with beautiful frescoes. More recent excavations in 1998 uncovered a large dormitory for poor pilgrims, a complex to the south of the great basilica (likely the abbot’s residence) and a complex of wine presses, including underground storage rooms, dating to the 6th/7th centuries.

However, excessive groundwater extraction has caused land subsidence, meaning the site is at risk of irreparable damage. A number of the site’s buildings have collapsed or are now unstable, and the site was added to the List of World Heritage Danger in 2001. Since then, efforts have been made to preserve and stabilise Abu Mena, including the placing of sand in endangered buildings and closing them off to the public.

Getting to Abu Mena

Abu Mena is located about 31 miles southwest of Alexandria, near New Borg El Arab city.

Arthur’s Stone history

Dating back to the Neolithic period, Arthur’s Stone was constructed as a burial tomb over 5000 years ago. Once covered by an earthen mound, today the tomb consists only of the inner structure following its erosion over time. A vast capstone covers nine upright stones to make up the chamber, which would have been accessed via the side of the mound. An isolated stone serves as a false entrance, perhaps serving as a focus for ceremonies.

Rituals of the ancestors or seasonal gatherings perhaps also took place here, with the site unlikely to have solely served as a tomb. As the site has never been excavated however, much intrigue still surround its real use.

Since before the 13th century, the site has been linked to the legendary figure King Arthur. Reportedly, it was at this site that Arthur defeated a giant who, upon falling dead, left an imprint of his elbow on one of the stones still seen today.

Arthur’s Stone today

Today Arthur’s Stone is protected by English Heritage, and is set on a grassy area off Arthur’s Stone Lane. Its curious structure provides an intriguing visit, with the huge capstone now cracked in half and partly collapsed.

Many draw comparisons between the stones and the altar on which Aslan is sacrificed in C.S. Lewis’ Narnia, the writer being highly inspired by the surrounding Golden Valley area. The site is also considered a northerly outlier of the Severn-Cotswold tomb Group that features a number of chambered tombs in the nearby area, similar to Arthur’s Stone.

The atmospheric site and its stunning surroundings allow for a picturesque walk, with a glimpse into some of Britain’s oldest history.

Getting to Arthur’s Stone

Arthur’s Stone is located in village of Dorstone, Herefordshire. Parking is available in Dorstone, a 35-minute walk to the site following the B4348 road north, before turning left down Arthur’s Stone Lane. Bus services stop in Dorstone village at Crossway Corner, and the closest train station is Hereford, 14 miles away.

Belas Knap Long Barrow history

Built around 3000 BC, Belas Knap Long Barrow was used for consecutive human burials for thousands of years, with Romano-British pottery found inside one of the burial chambers indicating that it was still open in Roman times.

As is sometimes found at ancient burial sites, Belas Knap features a large false entrance and two hidden side-entrances that actually lead into the burial chambers. This may have been to deter grave-robbers or to serve as a ‘spirit door’, through which the souls of the deceased may walk and receive the offerings left by their descendants during ceremonies.

At some point in Belas Knap’s lifetime however, its side doors were blocked up preventing its further use as a burial site. They were reopened however when site was excavated between 1863 and 1865, with the remains of 31 people found inside. Four different burial chambers were unearthed, as well as a collection of skeletons from children and one young adult beneath the false entrance. A circle of flat stones was also discovered in the centre of the mound, along with animal bones and flint artefacts.

The people buried here likely lived a life of hunting, cattle-herding and small scale farming, while two skeletons who died from severe head wounds suggest raiding and conflict may have been common in the period.

Belas Knap Long Barrow today

Today Belas Knap Long Barrow is managed by English Heritage and has been restored to its original condition, presenting a fascinating look into ancient life in Britain. Once a clearly significant burial site, it is 54 m long, 18 m wide and over 4m high, with the false entrance and side chambers still visible today.

The atmospheric chamber tombs inside the mound now remain open, allowing visitors to enter inside and see them up close. To get a further idea of the site’s significance, information boards give its intriguing history as well as a diagram of the various chambers inside.

Getting to Belas Knap Long Barrow

Belas Knap Long Barrow is located near Winchcombe in Gloucestershire, with the nearest parking in the layby at the start of the footpath. From there a 15-minute uphill walk following the signposts takes you to the site.

Alternatively, parking is available in the nearby village of Winchcombe, from which Belas Knap is a half mile walk along the Cotswold Way. The Castleways 559 bus service stops in Winchcombe, while the nearest train station is Cheltenham, 9 miles away.

History of Carnfree

The site was used by the O’Conor kings as an inauguration site. The O‘Conors were the high kings of Connacht, one of the four kingdoms of Ireland at the time) and also gave Ireland two of its final high kings Tairrdelbach Ua Conchobair (Turlough O’Conor) Ruaidrí Ua Conchobair (Rory O’Conor). The Annals of Connacht detail the role the site played in kingship ceremonies and inaugurations for the family. One 8th century text even claims St Patrick baptised princes on this spot.

The current O’Conor line lies with the descendants of Cathal Crobhdearg Ua Conchobair, Rory’s youngest brother and King of Connacht who lived in the Rathcroghan Area. The ‘Conchubhair Donn’, the senior member of the entire Síol Muireadaigh dynasty, likewise descends from Cathal Crobhdearg.

Rory O’Conor was the last ‘High King of Ireland’ and the only ‘King of Ireland’ to hold this title which was created during his reign before the Norman invasion. It was Rory’s invasion of Leinster which resulted in the exile of its king, Dermot MacMurrough, who invited the Normans to Ireland.

The site is also closely associated with early mythology, and particularly the Connacht champion Fráech who is said to live in the mound.

Carnfree today

Access to the site is limited as it’s on private land. Visits and guided tours can be arranged via the Rathcroghan Visitor Centre in Tulsk, but please don’t turn up to Carnfree unannounced as it’s a pain for the local residents and some consider it to be trespassing. As a result, don’t expect any amenities on site!

Predominantly you’ll be looking at mounds and barrows, likely used during inaugration ceremonies, which are certainly interesting to enthusiasts but not necessarily to everyone else…

Getting to Carnfree

Carnfree is located on a high ridge over the village of Tulsk. It’s about halfway between Castlerea and Strokestown, mostly easily accessed either via the N61 or the N5. Bus number 22 runs from Strokestown to Charlestown via Tulsk if you don’t have a car.

The hidden gem, which lies in the wooded area just behind Dunino Abbey has a mystical, supernatural atmosphere. The pre-Christian holy site consists of two large crags, below which lies a clearing in the woods.

Dunino Den history

First known to exist around 4000BC, Druids were the most knowledgeable people of their time in Scotland. Nonetheless, by the 7th century AD, Druidism and other pagan practises were driven underground for fear of persecution by Christian missionaries. Many Pagan gods and goddesses were converted and assimilated into Christian Saints and sacred wells were used as baptismal fonts.

The practises and rituals of these people have fascinated historians for centuries. Sites such as that seen at Dunino Den only further feed these curiosities.

The first crag is known as the “Altar Stone”. The well, which sits at the top of the rock, is said to have been used as an altar for human sacrifice by ancient druids. A footprint carved into the rock next to the well gives us an insight into the importance of the site. Carved footprints were used during inauguration rituals, such as the anointing of kings.

The next crag, referred to as “Pulpit Rock”, may have been used to plant a wooden cross carried by Christian monks at one time.

A narrow, winding set of steps, carved into the rocks, lead down into the den, where Celtic crosses, odd faces and mystical symbols have been etched into the rocks. Offerings, including ribbons, beads, coins and even women’s underwear dangle from branches and decorate the rocks around the site.

Dunino Den today

Although Dunino Den is a relatively unknown pagan site, many people who do visit it continue to use the site in the way that it was used in ancient times.

The site is seen as a gateway to the otherworld and hence offerings, as well as messages, are left for loved-ones and ancestors who have passed on. Monetary offerings are left in the rock crevices and it is believed that removing a coin from the site will bring bad luck.

Getting to Dunino Den

To reach the site follow directions for Dunino Church (roughly three miles south-east of St Andrews). Parking is available outside the church. Once you have parked, follow the path down into the woods, leaving the church to your left and walking along the trail through the cemetery.

Once you enter the woods, continue straight for a few minutes and you will reach the ‘altar’. The steps down into the den sit to the left of the altar. Be cautious when approaching the site, as there is a substantial drop from the top of the altar stone to the river below – the steps can also be very slippery.

Fourknocks history

Fourknocks passage tombs date back to 3000-25000 BC during the megalithic era, marked by the beginning of farming techniques. Topped with earth, the grave became a type of burial mound covering the grave made with pre-historic megaliths and smaller stones, likely a significant landscape marker for the local farming community during the Neolithic period.

The passage tomb was discovered in 1949 when a woman on a visit to Newgrange, a prehistoric monument near Drogheda, described mounds. The main tomb was excavated years later in 1950 to 1952 by PJ Harnett, who found cists, a small stone-built coffin-like box used to hold dead bodies, as well as grave goods including a foot bowl, a carved antler pin and urns containing cremated remains of adults and children. These items were all moved to the National Museum.

The found postholes which would have been used during building to hold stones or large timbers, as the original roof was likely a wooden structure supported by a central pole.

After Fourknocks was excavated, a concrete roof was placed over the reconstruction to protect the chamber.

Fourknocks today

Today you can visit the Fourknocks passage grave under a notable mound by following a path to the tomb entrance. There is a small information board at the entrance. Follow the short passage into the wide, pear-shaped chamber with three smaller chambers offset. The dozens of graves found at Fourknocks are hidden beneath large mounds and are decorated with prehistoric artwork including a rough portrait of a human face, which is three feet high.

Do not forget to take a torch with you, and visitors must put down a cash deposit to gain the key from the nearby village, Naul. There is unfortunately no access to the further two passage graves, now overgrown with grass and bushes.

Getting to Fourknocks

Fourkncoks is located 3.8km northwest from nearby village Naul, County Dublin, a half hour drive from Dublin city centre along the M1. If using public transport, get the 16, 103 and 195 buses from Dublin Airport to Naul – this takes 2 hours. Walking from Naul village takes roughly 50 minutes.

History of Gordion

Founded in an important strategic location in what is now central Turkey, Gordion was also famous as the place where Alexander the Great cut the Gordian Knot – with the legend stating that whomever achieved this feat would become king of all Asia.

Gordion itself saw many rulers and empires through the centuries. After the fall of the Phrygian Empire, Gordion was conquered by the Lydians, the Persian Empire, and Alexander’s Macedonians. It later became a Roman city and survived through to the Byzantine era.

Gordion Today

Today, visitors to Gordian cannot miss the huge burial mound, or Tumulus, associated with Midas. Visitors can enter the mound through a modern tunnel and view information about the site and the remarkably well-preserved burial chamber. However, there’s not much scope to explore the burial mound as the chamber itself is only viewable through the entrance bars.

Across the road from the Midas Tumulus is the Gordion Museum which hosts interesting displays of archaeological finds from the area and gives a background and overview of Gordion’s history. The museum also has a number of other items, as well as mosaics and a Hellenistic tomb.

Also worth exploring is the city’s acropolis, which includes the main excavation area and the ancient palace, temples and public buildings of the city. Don’t miss the looming Phrygian-era gate, which still stands over 10m high, at the south-east side of the Acropolis.

Be warned, exploring Gordion can be a hot and taxing experience – take lots of water and a good hat to keep out the sun!

Getting to Gordion

From the centre of Ankara, the village of Yassıhüyük is an hour’s drive via the Dumlupınar Blv./D200 road. From the centre of Eskişehir, it’s reachable in an hour and a half by car via the Dumlupınar Blv./D200/E90.

The Hili Archaeological Park has since been sculpted as both an historic site and public garden, and is a popular place to relax and explore for both tourists and locals.

Hili Archaeological Park history

The earliest agricultural village at Hili dates back to 3000 BC, artefacts of which were excavated and moved to the Al Ain National Museum. Between 2500 and 2000 BC, the settlement at Hili expanded during the period known as Umm an-Nar, named for an island off Abu Dhabi where the Bronze Age culture’s remains were first found. The Umm an-Nar society were notable for constructing circular shaped tombs with well-fitted stonework encasing an inner tomb that held human remains.

The Hili Archaeological Park was developed after excavations in the 1960s to highlight the ancient Al Ain monuments in an accessible way for visitors.

Hili Archaeological Park today

Open between 4 and 11pm, today the Hili Archaeological Park is a great space to wander, exploring the perfectly green gardens, fountains and for young people, a small play area. Follow the archaeological trail to view from close-by the prehistoric remains of the Umm an-Nar society.

A highlight of the park is undoubtedly the Hili Grand Tomb, dating back to 2000 BC. In circular Umm Al-Nar form with a diameter of 12 metres and 4 metres high, the tomb was a burial site for people of surrounding settlements. The tomb has 2 entrances, both intricately decorated with images of people and animals.

Getting to Hili Archaeological Park

The Hili Archaeological Park is located around 15 kilometres north of Al Ain near the Oman border. It is easiest to get there by car, a half hour drive via the central city district following the Mohammed Bin Khalifa Al Nahyan Street. There is parking on site.

History of the Hill of Tara

The Hill of Tara is one of the most important ancient sites in Europe, and an important symbolic and mystical landscape in Ireland itself. It’s believed the site was first used for burials around 3200BC: the oldest passage tomb dates to this point. A further 33 Bronze Age burial sites have been discovered since, all used for high status individuals.

The Iron Age is when Tara became truly important, and by the time of early Christianity, it was the site of over 100 coronations of High Kings of Ireland: all roads in Ireland led to back to Tara in this period of its prominence. Look out for the Lia Fáil, or Stone of Destiny, which reportedly would let out a roar when it was touched by the rightful king.

St Patrick is said to have visited the site, and evidence suggests that by the 11th century, a church had been built on the site.

The significance of the Hill of Tara continued to stretch into more recent history: in 1843, Daniel “the Liberator” O’Connell held what is known as the “monster meeting” there in favour of dissolving the Irish British union, drawing over 750,000 peaceful protesters. A group of calling themselves the British Israelites nearly destroyed Rath na Seanadh (The Rath of Synods), a monument on the site, between 1899 and 1902. They believed the Ark of the Covenant was buried there.

The Hill of Tara today

The Hill of Tara is operated by the OPW (Heritage Ireland) today, and is open year-round. Bear in mind most of the site is outdoors, so come prepared for all weathers and wear sturdy/comfy shoes. The site remains impressive, particularly when viewed from above.

Guided tours are available for a small charge, departing from the visitor centre. Amenities are somewhat limited – there are a couple of cafes in the vicinity with additional toilets.

Getting to the Hill of Tara

The Hill of Tara is in County Meath, about 40km north west of Dublin. Bus 109 will take you there from Busaras or Dublin Airport. Driving is also easy: Tara is only a short way off the M3 – turn off at junction 7 onto the R147 towards the town of Tara. The site is clearly signed.

History of Humayun’s Tomb

Humayun was the second Mughal Emperor, who ruled over swathes of modern day India, Afghanistan, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Following his death in 1556, his widow and chief consort, the Persian born Empress Bega Begum (also often known as Haji Begum), commissioned a magnificent tomb for her late husband.

It cost 1.5 million rupees, and took seven years to build, designed by the Persian architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas. The majority of the tomb is red sandstone, inlaid with white marble: Islamic geometric designs are predominant throughout the architecture.

The tomb is said to have inspired the Taj Mahal (which was built 60 years later) and was the first garden tomb in India at the time. The style of garden, known as a charbagh, was a typical Persian garden, the likes of which had not been seen in this part of the world before.

However, by this point in time, Mughal power and influence was already in the process of relocating to Agra (which had been the capital since 1556) rather than staying in Delhi, and the completed tomb did not generate the immense stir of the Taj Mahal. The gardens in particular fell into disrepair during the 17th century, and were used to grow vegetables in.

The last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, took refuge in the tomb complex prior to his capture by the British following the 1857 rebellion. Once the British arrived in Delhi, they tore up the Persian garden design, replacing it with something much more English in style. This was reversed in the early 20th century under the orders of Lord Curzon, the then Viceroy.

During the Partition of India in 1947, the tomb complex was used as a refugee camp for Muslims fleeing to Pakistan. These remained operational for five years, and caused considerably damage to the gardens and structure of the buildings.

In 1993, Humayun’s Tomb was declared a World Heritage Site and a major restoration project was begun to bring the gardens, fountains and buildings back to their former glory.

Humayun’s Tomb today

Humayun’s Tomb remains something of a peaceful oasis amongst the chaos and pollution of Delhi: look out for the perfect symmetry which makes it look as though it’s almost floating.

The complex itself is relatively large, and contains the tombs and mausoleums of several of Humayun’s family members and other Mughal rulers which are peeking into.

Go at dawn or dusk to capture the gorgeous light on the sandstone – the whole building seems to glow. Dressing conservatively is appreciated.

Getting to Humayun’s Tomb

The tomb complex is approximately 2km from Nizamuddin Railway Station and the JLN Stadium station on the Violet Line of Delhi Metro. Whilst it is possible to walk, getting a tuk tuk is advisable! Otherwise, it’s about a 7km trip from the main tourist district of Chadni Chowk. Taxis, Ubers and tuk tuks are convenient means of transport.