Relaunched in 2021, the trail commemorates East Sussex‘s association with the Norman conquest. The path is waymarked by 10 sculptures created by local artist Keith Pettit, each inspired by the Bayeux Tapestry.

If split into two days of 15 or so miles, the first day sees the walker set off from Pevensey, where William’s Norman army landed on 27 September 1066, and head to Battle, where the Battle of Hastings took place on 14 October 1066.

The Normans occupied the castle at Pevensey in 1066, which was once a Roman fortress and whose surviving, impressively robust curtain wall is originally Roman. The 1066 Country Walk picks up across the road where a shady corridor opens onto the Pevensey Levels. This Site of Special Scientific Interest is traversed with a steady plod over flat paths intersecting wetland meadows. The path ascends into the woody and gently rolling hills of the High Weald and soon passes directly in view of the 15th century, brick-built Herstmonceux Castle.

A few hours after setting off, I set myself down on a bench atop Tent Hill, a rise in the former medieval deer park of Ashburnham Estate. The Ashburnham family established themselves on this land a few decades after the Norman conquest, and the grounds of the grand Ashburnham Place were designed by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown in 1767. More tantalising is the suggestion that the English or Norman armies may have pitched up here, with views stretching to the South Downs, on the eve of the Battle of Hastings.

A few more miles took me alongside Senlac Hill, the generally accepted site of the Battle of Hastings. Battle Abbey was built on its summit on the orders of King William to mark the battle and perhaps compensate, spiritually-speaking, for all the killing it involved. Battle offers plenty of rooms in hotels, inns and private apartments if prepared in advance. In warmer months, there are also campsites a taxi journey away.

Battle Great Wood; Farbanks Henge

Image Credit: Kyle Hoekstra

On the other hand, perhaps a more authentic means of bedding down on the route is to pitch surreptitiously beneath the conifers of Battle Great Wood, an old woodland criss-crossed by wide, muddy tracks. The early medieval English made use of the woods for charcoal and the iron industry. As the last light was split by pines, I claimed a well-drained patch between their roots onto which I unfurled a pocket-sized tent, stretched out and lit my stove.

The following morning I wriggled from my sleeping bag to a quiet dawn chorus. Overnight rain had made gummy bog of the morning’s tracks which headed south and east towards Rye. At one moment, I had to remove my bag to crawl beneath a tree that had been wrenched over a walkway. When I was far from woods and marshland, I made coffee and porridge in a field beside a big oak.

A regular sight along the 1066 Country Walk are converted oast houses, elsewhere called hop kilns. These singular, cowled buildings, where hops were dried and stored for brewing, allude to the centuries of rural hop-growing which preceded 20th century industrialisation.

The walk soon broke onto open pasture and delivered me to a sculpture known as Farbanks Henge, a circle of oak monoliths inspired by trees on the Bayeux Tapestry. Here I met Peter, a local of Battle, and walked with him on the subsequent miles of country lanes and meadows through Icklesham to Winchelsea.

As we approached Winchelsea, he pointed out the isolated ruins of a gatehouse. I was already attuned to the town’s intriguing past. Over the past day I’d listened to Alex Prestons’ 2022 novel Winchelsea, which depicts the smuggling operations which ran rife in the area in the 18th century. The town was an important node in cross-Channel trade and became affiliated with the confederation of ‘Cinque Ports’. The present town was assembled on a grid in 1288, after ‘Old’ Winchelsea was abandoned to the sea – its name plausibly deriving from language for the marshland (‘qwent’) and the beach (‘chesil’).

Rye, East Sussex, England

Image Credit: Shutterstock

I watched Peter walk eastwards for Rye, which sits on a ridge above the intervening marshland. Rye is a substantially larger town with impressive historic remains. Its photogenic streets climb from venerable inns towards the Citadel, which contains St Mary’s Church, whose origins are Norman, and Ypres Tower, built to protect Rye and its harbour from later French raiders.

I chose to wait in Winchelsea a little longer. I ate lunch while looking over its striking, half-ruined church and contemplating the extensive wine cellars which run under the town. The sun was still high, and on Winchelsea’s Beacon Hill I dropped my bag by the remains of a mill destroyed by the Great Storm of 1987, which was once also the site of a Saxon church. I looked over the way I had come, at how the Weald comes to kneel at the sea. Then I lay with my back on the old mill stone, my mind alive to the tales I had gathered over the past two days.

History of Hatton Garden

Originally known as Ely Place, Hatton Garden was part of the estate of the Bishops of Ely. In 1581, Queen Elizabeth I gave Ely Place to her closest aide, politician and advisor Sir Christopher Hatton. The property featured a beautiful garden, and by the 19th century, the area became known as Hatton Garden.

In medieval London, certain crafts and industries clustered around specific neighbourhoods to ease production and trade. Hatton Garden was already a popular residential neighbourhood, but after the Hatton family began to sell parts of their Ely estate, wealthy merchants and businesses occupied the spaces, and by the 17th and 18th centuries, the district began to attract skilled artisans, particularly goldsmiths, clockmakers and jewellers.

At this time, London was confined to the square mile City of London, and Hatton Garden became the reputable destination for trusted experts and quality craftsmanship. Infrastructure improvements, the area’s proximity to London’s financial centre, and its connection to the aristocracy all contributed to Hatton Gardens’ allure as a destination for those seeking exquisite craftsmanship and luxury. By the mid-1880s, there were over 60 merchants in the Hatton Garden area, specialising only in precious stones.

As London expanded rapidly during the Industrial Revolution, the district became a hub of commercial activity, with shops, businesses, and workshops. The establishment of the nearby Leather Lane market also attracted a diverse range of merchants and customers.

By the 20th century, Hatton Garden had firmly established itself as the epicentre of London’s jewellery trade. Skilled jewellers, gemologists, and craftsmen flocked to the district, creating a close-knit community of artisans. The street-level shops showcased displays of precious stones, diamonds, and exquisite jewellery, drawing in customers from around the world.

Unsurprisingly, Hatton Garden has been the site of many heists, including the £7 million Graff Diamonds heist in 1993 – London’s biggest jewellery robbery. The district also gained infamy in 2015 when a group of ageing thieves executed an audacious heist, stealing millions of pounds worth of jewels from a vault located beneath the streets. This brazen act captured global attention and has been made into several films.

Hatton Garden today

Today, Hatton Garden continues to be known as London and indeed the UK’s jewellery and diamond centre, with nearly 300 jewellery-related businesses, and over 70 shops and workshops offering an array of precious stones and bespoke pieces. The area’s historic charm is also complemented by contemporary media and publishing businesses, as well as art galleries, cafes, and design studios.

Additionally, the district’s streets are adorned with architectural gems, ranging from elegant Georgian townhouses to modern developments. The area is also home to many narrow alleys, underground tunnels, office and vaults, as well as hidden courtyards that help provide a glimpse into London’s past.

Getting to Hatton Garden

Hatton Garden is fairly equidistant to Farringdon and Chancery Lane tube stations. From Chancery Lane, turn left onto Leather Lane and right onto Greville Street towards Hatton Garden. Alternatively, walk straight up Greville Street from Farringdon Station. Many buses serve the area, including the 63 from King’s Cross and the 172 from Clerkenwell Green, which stop at Farringdon Station.

History of Sa Capelleta

In the 4th to 2nd century BC, the site housed a Punic shrine, and was used as a place of worship, adorned with carvings, statues, and oil burners. The site later became a Roman burial ground from the 2nd to 3rd century AD, with 41 graves discovered, built in and around the Punic Shrine’s remains. Around 30 of these are still intact, along with skeleton remains and burial artefacts.

The third phase of the site’s history occurred during the 11th to 13th century when it served as an Islamic suburb. Excavations have uncovered a street, two doorways, and well pits, offering insight into the layout and daily life. A model of an Islamic home as it would have looked at the time – complete with furniture and crockery – helps visitors picture the scene. Additionally, two cesspits were also uncovered, which were able to offer information on the dietary habits of people from 800 years ago.

One of the most interesting aspects of Sa Capelleta is a section containing differing levels marked into the wall, which show 6 different levels of ground use, including a layer of dirt from the last 500 years, the abandoned Islamic village (marked by tiles from the roofs of the buildings), the floor and foundation level of the village, Roman graves, and finally the bedrock of the graves themselves.

Sa Capelleta today

Despite its strange entrance within a garage-like setting, surrounded by restaurants, shops and houses, visitors step onto a metal walkway that overlooks the excavated remains below. Information boards, display cases, and models provided insights into the site’s history and the artefacts discovered.

Descending from the walkway, visitors can explore the ruins up close, immersing themselves in the three distinct stages of the site’s occupation. They can walk along the Islamic street, pass through the doorways of ancient houses, observe the wells and Roman graves, and touch the stones of the Punic shrine. Sa Capelleta serves as a fascinating glimpse into the rich history of one particular plot, offering a captivating journey through time on one street at the heart of Ibiza town.

Getting to Sa Capelleta Interpretive Centre

Sa Capelleta is located in Ibiza’s Old Town, just a 2 minute walk from the Puig des Mollins Necropolis. Walk along Via Romana to the southern edge of the Necropolis grounds, turn right onto Joan Planells road and then left onto Sa Capelleta road. The site is free to enter.

The Castell d’Eivissa – Ibiza Castle – is an iconic landmark that stands atop the Dalt Vila, the historic Old Town of Ibiza. This imposing medieval fortress is an assortment of numerous buildings that span centuries (including the Moorish-era Tower of Homage, the 8th century Almudaina Moorish keep, the former governor’s home and the 18th century infantry barracks), reflecting the island’s strategic importance and the influence of various civilizations that have ruled over the region.

Castell d’Eivissa’s origins can be traced back to the 7th century BC when the Phoenicians settled in Ibiza. Recognising the strategic significance of the elevated site, they constructed a fortified settlement to protect themselves from potential threats. Over time, the Phoenicians were succeeded by the Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, and Byzantines, each leaving their marks on the fortress.

However, it was during the Arab occupation in the 9th century AD that the fortress took its present form. The Arabs fortified the castle and expanded its defences, making it a crucial stronghold in their Mediterranean territories. They constructed thick walls and imposing towers that still stand today.

In the early 13th century, the island was reconquered by the Christians to reclaim territories from Muslim rule. King James I of Aragon led the conquest of Ibiza, officially incorporating it into the Kingdom of Aragon. The Castell d’Eivissa played a pivotal role in this military campaign, and its capture was seen as a significant victory. The castle then underwent further enhancements, as the kingdom sought to strengthen its defences against pirate raids and potential invasions. The fortress was reinforced with more substantial walls and fortifications, including a moat, drawbridges, and a system of gates and towers.

Throughout the subsequent centuries, the Castell d’Eivissa continued to serve as a military stronghold, witnessing numerous conflicts and sieges. Its strategic location overlooking the harbour and the surrounding sea made it an essential defence post.

In the 18th century, the military importance of the fortress diminished, and it gradually fell into disrepair. However, in the 20th century, efforts were made to restore and preserve the castle. (During the Spanish Civil War, mainland anarchists massacred over 100 Ibizan Nationalist prisoners here before fleeing the island.)

Today, the Castell d’Eivissa stands as a symbol of Ibiza’s storied past, and visitors can explore its ancient walls, towers, and courtyards while enjoying stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscape and the Mediterranean Sea.

Reconstruction efforts have been primarily focused on the Sant Jaume Bastion and the Sant Pere Bastion, the two main defensive structures still standing. Each of these offer free exhibitions, and the castle grounds can also be explored, although visitors cannot enter the main castle.

The Sant Jaume Bastion is now a military museum, and houses an exhibition on the weapons that have been used to defend Ibiza, with a focus on military technology from the 16th-18th centuries. The exhibition highlights how the use of firearms affected the structure of the buildings, and visitors can handle some of the items on display, including cannons, mortar, muskets, helmets and swords. The Sant Pere Bastion houses an exhibition about the history of the castle and how the city wall was built, including a reproduction of Renaissance-era scaffolding.

History of Sa Caleta

This important archaeological site spans over 10 acres and contains the foundation remains of simple stone buildings – the last remnants of an ancient Phoenician settlement dating back to the 8th century BC.

The Phoenicians arrived from the Iberian coast, and whilst the site may initially have been used a seasonal or provisional base for economic and geographic expeditions surveying the Pityusic Islands (Ibiza and Formentera), they eventually settled there, utilising the area until around 600 BC, when they appear to have intentionally abandoned Sa Caleta, relocating to Ibiza bay.

The site’s location was probably chosen due to its proximity to the island’s natural salt marshes. The Phoenicians exploited this valuable natural commodity, as the harvesting of the natural salt crystals left behind after the shallow pools of seawater evaporated would have provided them with a currency for trade – the first commercial enterprise of the island.  They also would have engaged in other activities including fishing, baking, weaving, metalworking and smelting galena in order to obtain silver.

Excavations conducted in the 1980s and 1990s revealed the foundations of simple stone buildings, an urban area with narrow streets, and a communal square, providing insights into the original layout of the settlement. The buildings were constructed with stone and mud-brick, featuring flat clay roofs supported on timber rafters. Most structures consisted of one room, with some exceptions, including a building in the centre that likely played an important role.

Archaeologists also found evidence of metal and ironwork, along with stone mills, kitchen implements, and circular ovens for communal use. The site’s significance led to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. While some areas are still visible, others to the south have been lost to coastal erosion or were destroyed during the Spanish Civil War.

Sa Caleta today

There are around 6 buildings in total, grouped around narrow streets and courtyards, and today visitors can explore the ruins and gain insights into the agricultural, livestock and fishing activities of the ancient Phoenician settlement.

The site is also visible to tourists exploring the coastline, although parts of the delicate remains are fenced off. The terrace area near the top of the headland is not accessible for public viewing.

Getting to Sa Caleta

Sa Caleta Phoenician Settlement is located on the southwest coast of Ibiza, within a small rocky peninsula near the Punta des Jondal between des Codolar beach and des Jondal hill, about 6 miles from Ibiza Town.

Perched on a hilltop known as Puig de Vila, Dalt Vila offers impressive views of the harbour and the neighbouring island of Formentera.

History of Dalt Vila

Dalt Vila, originally known as Ibosim, was first populated in the Phoenician era in 654 BC. Its elevated location led to its new name of Dalt Vila, meaning ‘High Town’, and over the centuries, the town was occupied by various civilizations, including the Romans.

Walls were first constructed around the town in the 5th century to defend it against pirate attacks. These underwent several modifications and were reinforced in the 16th century under King Philip II. The new heptagon-shaped Renaissance-era wall, equipped with cannons, took 40 years to build and played a crucial role in safeguarding the city from pirate and Ottoman invasions.

Restored in the 20th century, the walls of Dalt Vila now stand 25 metres high, and are up to 5 metres thick. The town’s historical significance and cultural heritage led to its designation as a UNESCO heritage site in 1999.

Dalt Vila today

Today Dalt Vila seamlessly blends old and new, with a mix of quaint spots scattered with pretty restaurants, cafes, boutiques and shops. Much of the architecture and layout of the area has remained untouched since the town’s construction, and blue information plaques provide historical insights at key sites.

Dalt Vila has 4 entrances, the most impressive (and dramatic) of which is the Portal de ses Taules, where visitors walk up a stone slope across a drawbridge and through a large arched gate flanked by two Roman statues, leading to the Plaza de Vila – the main square. Roads from all directions lead to the 13th century Cathedral, which also offers spectacular Mediterranean views. Adjacent is the Castell d’Eivissa, an imposing medieval hilltop castle with high ramparts. 

The cathedral is free to enter, and also houses the Museu Diocesa which is well worth a visit. Opposite is the Madina Yabisa Interpretive Centre charting the city’s Arab history and containing a section of the original defensive walls. The Archaeological Museum is also situated in the same square, and houses a small collection of prehistoric and Phoenician artefacts. For something more modern, visitors can head to the Museum of Contemporary Art, just past Portal Nou, the town’s second entrance.

Whilst the Dalt Vila is full of history, it’s also worth walking around simply for its stunning views out over the port, the sea and inland over Ibiza town. The Placa D’Espanya’s steep tunnel takes visitors through and outside the walls – an exhibition of which can be found at the Baluard de Sant Pere.

Walking the entire way around the city ramparts takes less than an hour, but it’s also worth wandering through the towns steep maze of white streets, narrow passageways and residential cobblestoned UNESCO-listed streets with their picture-postcard houses. In early May, a medieval festival adds to the town’s allure.

Dalt Vila also hosts significant events including the grand finale of the International Music Summit, which takes place on the battlements of Santa Lucía in early summer and features an open-air concert with some top names in techno, pop and electronic music. Additionally, the Bastion of Sant Pere ramparts serve as a scenic location for a fantastic open-air cinema, Cinema Paradiso.

Getting to Dalt Vila

Dalt Vila is easily accessed from Ibiza town and is free to enter. The best way to explore is on foot, so be sure to wear comfortable shoes to tackle its steep maze of cobbled streets, alleyways and paths. There are 3 official sightseeing loops, and 2-hour guided tours run daily throughout the Old Town.

As a defence, a network of coastal watchtowers were constructed at strategic vantage points, serving as lookouts to warn the island’s inhabitants of any impending threats. 7 of these watchtowers still stand on the main island, providing visitors with spectacular views.

History of Ibiza’s Pirate Towers

After being under Arab rule for over 300 years, Ibiza and Formentera were recaptured by the Catalans in 1235 during the Reconquista. However, the island’s former rulers used their knowledge of the archipelago to carry out pirate attacks, raiding homes, stealing goods and animals, and capturing women and children for ransom. This prompted the Catalans to build a series of watchtowers around the island, strategically positioned to enable sentries to spot incoming pirate ships and raise an alarm.

Initially an acoustic warning was given, using a shell horn, though a more advanced system involving fire signals was later adopted. The nearest watchtower would be lit as a warning signal, and this signal would be relayed from one tower to another until the entire island was aware of the impending danger. The watchtowers were crucial for protecting the island’s inhabitants, who would then either seek refuge in the fortified towers or nearby churches (which were also fortified).

The watchtowers were constructed between the 16th-18th centuries by royal stonemasons. They were round, with 2.5 metre thick walls, and around 9 metres tall. The towers had 2 storeys, with a spiral staircase along the inner wall and an exterior platform with arrow slits. The doors were only accessible with a ladder, which could be retracted once defenders were inside, making the towers difficult to breach.

The towers proved so effective that local people were inspired to form their own group of vigilantes, known as ‘corsairs’ (effectively similar to pirates themselves). These armed corsair ships were granted royal permission to hunt down pirates and protect the island from seaborne threats. One notable corsair captain, Antonio Riquer Arabi, is claimed to have conquered over 100 pirate ships, preventing significant damage to the island. To honour him and these corsair defenders, a monument was erected on the harbour front in Ibiza – the only known pirate statue in the world.

Ibiza’s Pirate Towers today

7 of these pirate towers are still preserved today on the main island, including the: Torre Des Carregador, Torre d’en Rovira, Torre d’en Valls, Torre de Portinatx, Torre de Balansat and the Torre des Savinar (one of the best places to watch the sunset in Ibiza).

Most of the towers are still in good condition. As they were strategically built on raised ground (such as mountain ridges, headlands, and cliffs), they consequently provide fantastic views of the island’s beautiful countryside. Over the last century, several of the watch towers have been inhabited, yet still remain testament to Ibiza’s cultural heritage.

Getting to Ibiza’s Pirate Towers

The towers are easy to find and are clearly marked on every tourist map. Most are located along a stretch of the coast which can easily be accessed by car and are also easily accessible by foot. Popular routes start at the corsair monument in Ibiza’s harbour, then head south.