History of Aguateca

Thought to have been one of the two capitals of the Maya Dynasty in the region – together with Dos Pilas – from around 700 AD, Aguateca was a vital stronghold thanks to its natural defences – cliffs and a ravine. In fact, in the eighth century, Dos Pilas was abandoned and its people sheltered at Aguateca. Carved stelae on site detail Aguateca’s military successes and have greatly helped historians decipher Aguateca’s history.

The city was finally abandoned sometime around 800AD – arrowheads and skeletons, the remains of burnt buildings, and scattered valuables imply that the city was attacked and partly destroyed by invaders, leading to its sudden abandonment.

The remains of the city suggest that it was a centre for craft production and trade: obsidian was found in quite large quantities, which is evidence of trade with other city states. A half constructed temple has also been unearthed, which provided insights into Maya building processes and materials.

Aguateca is located in northern Guatemala, in the region of Petén. It’s relatively remote, accessible only by motorboat from the nearby town of Sayaxché, via the Río Petexbatún: the journey takes just under an hour each way. Sayaxché itself is off the main highway PET-11 to Flores – buses should be able to drop you there.

History of Dos Pilas

Originally settled as early as 300BC, the city of Dos Pilas was founded by the Tikal King Kinich Muwaan Jol II in 629 AD as a kind of breakaway city following Tikal’s capture by its rival, Calakmul. Twinned with nearby Aguateca, Dos Pilas thrived in the seventh and eighth centuries AD thanks to its strategic river location, which allowed the city to control much of the commerce along this stretch of river.

Dos Pilas clashed with most of the major powers in the region following its founding, including the larger sites of Tikal, Calakmul and Yaxchilan. It took control of El Ceibal successfully. At various points it seems Dos Pilas was protected by Tikal and Calakmul, but in 761AD, Tikal crushed Calakmul and the inhabitants of Dos Pilas fled to the better defended city of Aguateca.

The city was razed by its enemies – a smashed throne stands as testament to some of the destruction wreaked here. A small group seem to have returned to the ruins of Dos Pilas following its abandonment: the ruins of defensive walls they constructed by stripping destroyed buildings can still be seen.

The ruins of Dos Pilas were first reported / ‘rediscovered’ in the 1950s, and excavations started in the 1990s.

Dos Pilas today

Today, Dos Pilas contains a reasonable set of ruins including a staircase which has carvings chronicling important historical events of the time, several pyramids, temples and a central plaza. The site contains many stelae, which have helped historians decipher the city’s complex history in nuanced detail. Given Dos Pilas’ relations with surrounding cities, this is invaluable.

The site has 3 main groupings of buildings. Bring plenty of water, snacks and insect repellent – the Peten jungle can get hot and sticky and there aren’t any amenities nearby.

Getting to Dos Pilas

Like all Maya sites in this region of Petén, you’ll need to start at Sayaxché: from there, you can either hire a 4×4 or get a boat. It’s not a trip for the faint-hearted! Sayaxché itself is about an hour south of Flores, just off the main highway. Buses will drop you there.

History of El Ceibal

El Ceibal was inhabited from roughly 400BC until the 10th century, although the city’s fortunes waxed and waned. It’s thought to have peaked in about 200AD and then again in the 9th century, with a maximum population of 10,000 people. It was abandoned later than many of its contemporaries, perhaps due to the arrival of a new elite from the eastern city of Ucanal.

However, much of El Ceibal’s history remains obscured: it suffered a major defeat at the hands of the Petexbatun kingdom (ruled by Dos Pilas), which led to many of the stelae created prior to the 8th century being destroyed as a result. The stelae that do survive date from after the collapse of many of the surrounding Maya kingdoms.

The ruins were rediscovered by loggers in the late 19th century, and major excavation work took place here in the 1960s.

Much of the decoration at El Ceibal is a cultural hybrid of traditional Maya with designs more commonly found in central Mexico, illustrating the amount of trade and intercultural interactions that were going on at this point. The city’s close proximity to the river meant it was a trading hub and would have controlled commerce along this stretch of the river.

Amongst the things to see at Ceibal are a ball court, several stelae (carved stones) which are renowned for being dated fairly late for the Maya civilisation and a few remaining structures such as an impressive round temple. It is quite a large site, although it has comparatively fewer attractions than others in the area.

Getting to El Ceibal

Part of El Ceibal’s attraction to many is its remoteness. Most people access the ruins by boat – it takes about one hour from the town of Sayaxché, and the river is a site in itself. Look out for crocodiles! Sayaxché itself is on the highway (PET-11) to Flores. Buses will be able to drop you here. From the landing point it’s a 30 minute steep uphill walk to the site, so bear this in mind.

History of El Mirador

El Mirador flourished in the Preclassic period (600BC to 100AD), and sprawled over some 26 square kilometres. Its success is particularly remarkable given its location: deep in the jungle, the agricultural practices used were relatively sophisticated. Inhabitants made the most of the mud from bajos (seasonal swamps), adding lime to improve the pH and making it ready for sowing crops. Engineers also built reservoirs to catch rainwater as there are no natural water sources nearby.

The pyramids at El Mirador are particularly noteworthy: gigantic structures, they are what gave El Mirador (literally, the lookout) its name. Most notable are La Danta, El Tigre and Los Monos, three huge pyramidic structures. La Danta is thought to be one of the largest pyramids in the world, with a huge volume of 2.8 million cubic metres.

It’s unclear why the site was abandoned: the construction of a large wall enclosing the city suggests it was potentially under threat. Others hypotheses include excessive deforestation by the Maya in order to create stucco for other building projects, and in turn, poor soil and famine. The site was briefly reoccupied about 500 years later.

El Mirador is a relatively new ‘discovery’: the site is still has major ongoing archaeological projects: Richard D Hansen of Idaho State University is currently leading excavations.

El Mirador today

You’ll need to use your imagination to picture what El Mirador was like in its prime: buried by jungle today, excavations have barely scratched the service of what this monumental city would have encompassed. The coming years will continue to see discoveries made as the city slowly gives up its secrets to archaeologists.

It’s worth every second (and penny) of the effort required to get here: the ruins are incredibly atmospheric, and it feels like stepping back in time. Remarkable stucco friezes are on display in certain areas, giving a flavour for what the highly decorated city must once have looked like.

It’s possible to climb some of the structures: wooden stairs have been added in some places in order help preserve the stones from human wear and tear. The views from the top of La Danta are phenomenal: jungle as far as the eye can see normally, although look out for the tops of pyramids at Calakmul.

Bear in mind the intensity of the jungle heat and humidity: bring more water than you’ll think you need, insect repellent, and wear loose light clothes. There are no facilities at El Mirador (unsurprisingly) so come prepared. Good shoes are a must.

Getting to El Mirador

El Mirador is one of the most remote Maya sites discovered. There are no roads here: it’s either a 5 day, 4 night trek or a daytrip via helicopter. If you fancy splashing out on a chopper, or are short for time, helicopters depart pretty much daily from Flores, slightly dependent on availability. Treks depart from the roadside hamlet of Carmelita: you need to be in serious shape. Not only will you be covering about 30km today, the heat and humidity is extremely intense. February – June is the best time to go to avoid the worst of the rains. It’s not recommended you attempt the trek without a guide.

History of Guatemala National Archaeology and Etymology Museum

The museum was brought into existence in 1898, following a government decree. It has lived in its current location, which boasts over 3000 metres square of exhibition space, since 1946. The total collection comprises of over 25,000 items.

Guatemala National Archaeology and Etymology Museum today

The museum has an undeniably impressive collection of Maya artefacts and sculptures – it’s a great place to start or finish your trip if you’re planning to go and visit Maya ruins as it displays Pre Classic, Classic and Post Classic Maya societies. It also has an impressive selection of artefacts removed from sites like Tikal and Piedras Negras.

The impressive Maya collection ranges from dioramas of ancient cities to pottery, masks and jewellery – especially in the signature Maya stone of jade – using these artefacts and pieces to chronicle the Maya culture from the Pre-Classic period to the Classic and Post-Classic.

The museum is closed on Mondays and open afternoons only at weekends. There’s relatively sparse signage, even in Spanish, so it’s worth reading up before you come or having a phone handy to do some research on what you’re looking at in order to have a slightly fuller understanding.

Getting to Guatemala National Archaeology and Etymology Museum

The museum is located in the south of Guatemala City, on the corner of Calle 5A and Avenida 7A: the bus stop Parada Transurbano is close by, but otherwise it’s not very public transport / walking friendly. You’ll probably want to hire a taxi from the centre of town. It’s also relatively close to the airport, so if you find yourself with time to kill during a layover this makes an excellent spot.

History of Museo Popol Vuh

The bulk of the museum’s collections were donated by Jorge Castillo in 1977: over his lifetime, he and his wife Ella had amassed an extensive collections of archaeological and colonial items. In 1975, he hired a student to classify and organise all of the items. On his death in 1977, Castillo donated his collections to the Universidad Francisco Marroquín. However, the university decided to house these new additions in their own museum.

The Popol Vuh, after which the museum is named, was a book containing the myths and history of the Quiche Maya – it was put down in writing shortly after the the arrival of the Spanish. It remains a non-profit institution and a centre for education and research.

Museo Popol Vuh today

The museum is widely regarded as one of the biggest and best collections of Maya art in the world: its collection of funerary art is particularly notable. The galleries are organised chronologically, from Paleo Indian through to colonial collections, and it takes several hours to explore them thoroughly.

There are also plenty of traditional textiles, and a copy of the Dresden Codex, which was one of the precious painted books of the Maya.

Museo Popol Vuh is closed on Saturday afternoons and Sundays. It’s one of Guatemala’s most modern and impressive museums and guided tours run semi-regularly. They are an excellent walk through of the complex history of the Maya and a good way to gain deeper understanding of what’s in front of you.

Visiting Museo Popol Vuh before embarking on your travels around Guatemala is a sensible option if you want to understand the chronology and some of the complex belief systems and societal structures of the Maya.

Getting to Museo Popol Vuh

The museum is located in Zona 10 of Guatemala City, on the campus of Universidad Francisco Marroquin, and is, unusually for Guatemala, wheelchair accessible.

There’s extremely limited public transport in the vicinity (the nearest bus stop is a couple of kilometres away), so getting a taxi here makes the most sense. Walking is not generally advised in Guatemala City.

History of Quirigua

Whilst thought to have been inhabited from 200 AD, most of the structures at Quirigua date back to the mid-sixth century AD and include numerous carved stone objects and structures, such as an acropolis and a pyramid temple, centred on three main plazas.

Quirigua was an initially relatively small city and certainly smaller than its counterpart Copan in what is now Honduras. However, in the eighth century the ruler of Quirigua, Cauac Sky (723–784 AD) was determined to be independent and achieved this when he captured the leader of Copan. Quirigua was thereby autonomous and the capital of its state and, with plentiful resources such as obsidian and jade, was a prosperous society.

One aspect for which Quirigua is famed is for its collection of stelae, each elaborately carved and one of which, at 36 feet high, is the tallest one of its kind in the world (although only two thirds of it protrudes above ground). Quirigua’s artwork also includes a series of pictures of human-animal hybrids known as “zoomorphs”.

The city was abandoned in around the tenth century, although the reason for this remains a mystery.

Quirigua today

Quirigua has one of the best collections of Maya stelae known, and they are pretty awe-inspiring. The largest of them, Stelae E, weighs over 60,000. Some of them are quite worn (one group has been covered by a thatched structure to stop further deterioration) but the detail on them is phenomenal. Bring a torch if you want to examine them in closer detail.

Note that following a major victory over nearby Copan in 738AD, the central plaza in Quirigua was rebuilt as an imitation of Copan’s, so if you’ve visited the ruins over the border it might look familiar!

There is also the remnants of two watchtowers, used to scout out potential threats and control traffic and commerce on the routes. These are testament to the longstanding rivalry between Quirigua and Copan.

This part of Guatemala is particularly sticky and humid – bring plenty of water, a hat, and insect repellent. It’s also advisable to wear long loose clothes to protect yourself against bites.

Getting to Quirigua

Quirigua is about 5km off the main road (CA9), which links Guatemala City to San Pedro Sula, across the border in Honduras: it’s not far from the turn off to Copan. It’s possible to drive here yourself, although many get the bus from the town of Rio Dulce, which is about 90 mins away. Ask to be let off at the intersection of CA-9 and Ruinas de Quirigua: you can normally hail a tuk tuk from the junction, or it’s about a (sweaty!) 45 minute walk to the ruins.

History of Tikal

Tikal (probably originally called Yax Mutal) was a major ceremonial site in the Maya culture, with many temples and pyramids built there between 300 BC and 100BC and then further expansion taking place from 600AD to 800AD. Its peak is thought to have been in Classic Period, i.e. between the 3rd and 10th century AD.

In addition to its ceremonial significance, Tikal was a thriving settlement, a political hub and almost certainly the capital of its region. Tikal has been linked with the Maya city of Teotihuacan in modern Mexico: it’s believed that the two interacted.

The mysterious collapse of the Maya affected Tikal too: the site was abandoned by the end of the 10th century and some evidence seems to suggest that several palaces were burned to the ground. Tikal was gradually reclaimed by the jungle: the first Europeans to ‘discover’ Tikal did so in the mid 19th century, and various expeditions returned to photograph, map and make attempts at excavations. It was nearly 100 years later, in the late 1950s, that serious archaeological work was undertaken at Tikal, and the temples were fully uncovered.

Today, visitors to Tikal are greeted with a wealth of well-preserved monuments, palaces, structures and temples. This UNESCO World Heritage site actually has a staggering 3,000 or so ancient structures mostly dating back to between 600BC and 900AD, six of which are fully uncovered. Amongst these are five magnificent pyramids, some of them being crowned with temples and the largest one being an impressive 213 feet tall.

Note the sacrificial altars, such as that at the Temple of the Masks, and also try out the acoustics, which were designed so that people could be heard from the tops of the temples down to the bottom of the pyramids. The large number of tombs found at Tikal have also aided understanding of the dynastic rulers at Tikal and so it’s one of the Maya settlements we have the fullest picture of.

Tikal today

Tikal remains one of the best, and therefore most popular, Maya sites in Guatemala. Be prepared for it to be busy unless you’re there for dawn or dusk. The jungle climate means it’s hot and sticky, so bring plenty of water and insect repellent.

The site is pretty large, so it’s worth wearing sensible shoes so you can climb up and down the pyramids with ease. Guides at the entrance will offer their services and it’s well worth hiring one: you’ll learn plenty more from them than any guidebook.

Templo I

Also know as the Temple of the Grand Jaguar, this temple was constructed above the tomb of Ah Cacao: excavations have discovered a wealth of burial goods. The temple would have once been brightly coloured and would have had a roofcomb. It is no longer possible to climb Templo I.
Templo IV 

At 65m tall, Templo IV is the tallest building at Tikal and unsurprisingly, has phenomenal views over the jungle canopy. It’s a steep climb, but you’ll be rewarded for your efforts: spot the tops of other temples peek above the trees, enjoy sunrise (or sunset), and listen to the noises of the jungle.

Thought to have been completed in the 8th century AD, the lintel which once rested on the top is now in a museum in Switzerland.

Acropolis del Norte

One of the oldest structures at Tikal, it seems that the first structures on this site were erected around 600BC, and the final, and most impressive, version of the site would have had 12 temples sitting on top of a large platform. Rows of stelae record majestic deeds of kings, and have helped further our knowledge and understanding of the area.

Getting to Tikal

Tikal is located deep in the jungle of Petén: the nearest town, where almost all travellers visit from, is Flores. There’s a wealth of buses from Flores to Tikal, although getting to Flores itself can be an arduous journey – if you’re short on time, there’s an airport with flights from Guatemala City.

There are some accommodation options on site which are highly recommend if you want to visit early in the morning or late at night – you’ll get a feel for the magic of Tikal and staying in the jungle is always an experience!

Organised tours are also a popular option if you don’t want the hassle of organising your own travel. You’ll find plenty of tour operators in Flores.

History of Yaxha

Yaxha literally means ‘blue green water’ which is apt given its lakeside location. It’s believed that there are over 500 structures at Yaxha, and that at its peak, the city would have spanned over 92 square miles and had a population of over 40,000 people. As such, it is the third largest Maya city to be uncovered behind Tikal and El Mirador.

The site has been occupied since the Preclassic period (about 500BC), and expanded rapidly over the next 1000 years, becoming a dominant power in the region until its abandonment around 1000AD. Unlike neighbouring cities, it doesn’t seem that Yaxha’s decline was rapid – in fact, it appears to have expanded to welcome inhabitants who had been affected by the Classic Maya collapse around 900AD.

Whilst stelae detailing Yaxha’s history have been found, they’re mostly too eroded to help decipher the city’s history. It is clear that Yaxha was under the protection of the bigger Tikal at certain points, and also had a fierce rivalry with the nearby city of Naranjo.

Yaxha was first ‘rediscovered’ in 1904, by the explorer Teoberto Maler: excavations and mapping were undertaken in the 1930s, and stabilisation work has been going on since the 1970s.

Yaxha today

Yaxha is remote, but all the more magical for it, and it’s definitely worth the effort it takes to get here. Some even find they prefer it to the nearby Tikal.

Built on several hills, structures and groups were joined by sacbes (walkways) and staircases, many of which are still used today. The Acropolis del Norte (North Acropolis) is particularly spectacular, comprising of three pyramidal temples which rise above the jungle canopy. Structure 216, atop a hill, affords the best view and is worth the sweaty climb: you’ll be able to see the jungle, the site of Yaxha, and the nearby lake from which it derives its name.

There’s a small interpretation centre at the entrance of the site, which contains some of the finds made on site. Yaxha covers a big site so wear good shoes and come prepared – insect repellent, hat, water and snacks are all advisable. It can be extremely humid in the jungle so stay hydrated.

You can normally find guides by the entrance and they can be very helpful: alternatively, read up on the site’s history before you get here and go it alone. There are also plenty of guides who will offer their services in Flores if you want a prearranged visit.

Getting to Yaxha

The site is 11km north of the Puente Ixlú–Melchor de Mencos road: east of Flores, heading towards the Belize border. You’ll either need to hire a car (or a guide with a car) in Flores, or go on an arranged tour – public transport won’t get you this far! It’s undeniably remote, but all the more special for it.

There’s a lodge by the entrance to the Yaxha National Park if you want to stay the night, but you’ll still need transport to get to and from the ruins.