For lovers of well-preserved Roman architecture Qasr Bashir is certainly a hidden gem. Standing within the solid walls of Qasr Bashir, you will certainly be able to feel the living history of life on the edge of the Roman Empire.

History of 14 Henrietta Street

14 Henrietta Street was built in the 1740s, and its exterior is a classic Georgian style: examples of similar architecture can be found across Dublin. The 18th century was a period of economic boom in Ireland, as Dublin became the second city of the empire and the wealthy arrived. The house was first occupied by Lord Richard Molesworth and his family: the whole five-story house would have been for the one family and their household, and the interior was designed to separate public, private and domestic spheres. Subsequent owners were of similar social status: predominantly members of the Anglo-Irish gentry and their family who wanted a suitably grand house to reflect their social status.

This changed in the 1800s, when those with more professional, blue collar occupations began to buy up property like Henrietta Street. The house became a place of work, and slightly more functional than decorative.

The house changed purpose again in following the Great Famine. The population of Dublin had increased rapidly, and landlords began to buy up big houses like those on Henrietta Street to rent out in flats (or tenements) to families. 14 Henrietta Street was bought in 1876 and rented out initially as 4 separate apartments

By the time of the 1911, over 100 people lived in 14 Henrietta Street: it was squalid, cramped and dirty. It remained a tenement building until 1976, when the last tenants left: the building was crumbling.

Dublin City Council bought the house in 2000 and restored it into the building that can be visited today.

14 Henrietta Street today

The house opened to the public in September 2018: access is by guided tour only. The guides have some good stories (or legends!) about former residents and the house itself that are worth listening out for. There are several steep sets of stairs and the tour involves standing up for a long time.

Rooms have been restored to their appearance in different periods, and particularly poignant are the rooms divided up into tenement dwellings, complete with some of the belongings that would have filled the space donated by ex-residents.

Getting to 14 Henrietta Street

14 Henrietta Street is easily accessible on foot from central Dublin – it is a couple of roads up from Parnell Street, and close to the Hugh Lane Gallery. There are several bus routes which stop close by: the nearest Luas stop is Dominik (Green line).

History of Bantry House

Excavations show that the land Bantry House was built on had been in use since at least the medieval period – remnants of Gaelic settlements and fishing villages. Bantry House – originally called Blackrock – was built in the early 18th century. An earlier version of the house stood on the site, built by Samuel Hutchinson, but in 1765 Richard White bought the property and developed it into something more similar to what stands today.

Richard’s son, also called Richard, was made Baron Bantry in 1797, and later elevated to the peerage as Earl of Bantry in 1816. The Whites travelled across Europe and further afield, collecting voraciously: note the Gobelin tapestries in the drawing room, mosaics from Pompeii in the entrance hall, Japanese chests and Russian shrines.

The second Early of Bantry and his wife Mary developed the gardens at Bantry House, creating seven terraces and planting wisteria, azaleas and rhododendron amongst other plants. Copies of statues by Canova can be found dotted throughout the grounds, and the main lawn offers sweeping views over Bantry Bay.

Bantry House was used as a hospital during the Irish Civil War, and occupied by squadrons of the Irish Army in the Second World War. The White family decided to open the house to the public in 1946, selling a variety of paintings shortly afterwards in order to raise funds.

The East Wing has been restored and now operates as a B&B. The house was given a major grant in 1997 to stop it falling into irretrievable disrepair.

Bantry House today

The house retains a slightly faded aristocratic air, with an eclectic set of collections and a feeling that the modern world hasn’t quite reached it yet. The White family continue to operate Bantry House, and it’s open everyday in peak summer season, but relatively limited hours and days outside of this – be sure to check before you visit. The collections within remain important and notable.

The gardens remain a delight: it’s worth climbing the 100 steps to the top of the terraces for fantastic views, and exploring them fully as they’re beautifully elaborate and well-kept.

Getting to Bantry House

Bantry House is about 1km southwest of Bantry town on the N71. Bus 236 from Cork City goes to Bantry, but unless you sweet talk the driver, you’ll need to walk from the town centre back along the road to the house.

History of Barryscourt Castle

The land on which the castle was built first came into the hands of the Barry family in the 12th century, and excavations suggest some kind of early fortification may well have stoof on the site from around this time. The direct Barry family line eventually became extinct, and the site passed to a cousin, James FitzRichard, in 1556.

It’s thought he constructed the Tower House and surrounding fortifications around this time: architectural styles support this hypothesis. Built around the 1550s, Barrycourt Castle was the seat of power of the Barrymore branch of the Barry Family in Cork.

It was at a strategic site and was coveted by many, including Sir Walter Raleigh, who when he went to take the castle, found it burned down to deny him by the then owner, Lord David Barry. Barry took to the woods joining the Desmond Rebellion and then changed sides and in return gained all his lands and titles back for a small fine. He lived in the castle then from 1583/4 until his death in 1617.

After 1617, the castle stopped being the Barrys’ primary residence, but remained of strategic importance and was attacked during the Irish Confederate War. It then fell into further disrepair.

In 1987, the Barryscourt Trust was founded to conserve and develop the ruins into a potential heritage site – the castle was eventually taken over by the OPW (Office of Public Works), who restored much of the interior and continue to operate the site today.

Barryscourt Castle today

The main body of the castles and the gardens have been extensively restored, but guided tours are still the best way to go round – you’ll learn plenty about architecture, materials, and the social and cultural life of the upper echelons of Anglo-Irish society.

The castle has been closed for several years for further restoration work, and during the 2020-21 pandemic. Check back on heritageireland.ie for opening times.

Getting to Barryscourt Castle

The castle is located about 16km east of the city of Cork – it’s about a 20 minute drive, or you can get the bus (260 or 261) from Cork Bus Station to Carrigtwohill, about a 5 minute walk away.

History of Birr Castle

There has been a castle on site since 1170 at Birr: the castle and grounds (known as a demesne) were in the hands of the O’Carroll family until 1620, when Sir Lawrence Parsons was granted ownership of Birr Castle and the surrounding 1277 acres.

Parsons built a new castle on site using English masons, although this was relatively shortlived: his son William was besieged at Birr for over a year by Catholic forces, and another renovation had to take place after this. The castle was later ‘Gothicised’ in the early 19th century.

The 19th century was a time of scientific innovation at Birr: the 3rd Earl of Rosse built the ‘Leviathan of Parsonstown’ in 1845 – a huge telescope that, at that time, was the largest on Earth and was capable of seeing the furthest of any telescope so far created. The observatory at Birr attracted visitors from across the world, and was responsible for large numbers of astronomical discoveries, including that of spiral galaxies. William Parson’s wife, Mary Ross, was a photographer who had her own pioneering dark room in the castle: sadly, only a replica is now visible today.

After the death of his son, Lawrence, in 1908, the telescope was broken up – the mirror was taken to London’s Science Museum, and much of the supporting metal structure was melted down for use in the First World War. The telescope was only restored seriously in the late 1990s.

Getting to Birr Castle

Birr Castle is just off the N52/N62 crossroads, about 45 minutes south of Athlone. You’ll need to park in the public car park (pay and display) opposite the castle entrance – there’s no parking on site. Bus route 72 runs between Athlone and Limerick Train Station, stopping in Birr en route. Allow 45 minutes from Athlone and 90 minutes from Limerick.

History of Blarney Castle

Blarney Castle is believed to date back to around 1200, when a stone fortification was first built on the site. This was destroyed in 1446, and rebuilt by Cormac Láidir MacCarthy, King of Munster, shortly afterward. Legend has it that prior to this, 4,000 Munster men were sent to help Robert the Bruce fight the English at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314. In repayment, the Stone of Scone was split in half and sent to Blarney Castle in gratitude, where it was incorporated into the battlements.

The castle was beseiged, and later captured by English Parliamentarian forces in 1646, although it was later restored to the new Earl of Clancarty, Donough MacCarty. However, Blarney Castle was consficated from the 4th Earl of Clancarty by William of Orange, and the castle proceeded to change hands multiple times after that. It was eventually purchased by the governor of Cork City, Sir James St John Jefferyes in 1688.

The Jefferyes family built a mansion nearby the keep of the ruined castle, and their descendants still own the site today.

Blarney Castle today

Most visitors to the Castle today go for the Blarney Stone, which has helped make it one of Ireland’s most popular tourist attractions. There’s a variety of myths and legends about its origins: the association with the name Blarney with the so called gift of the gab was first made by Elizabeth I out of frustration at Lord Blarney’s ability to talk a lot without saying much. To kiss the stone, you have to lean backwards over a long drop: best not think about the germs on there!

‘Castle’ is a bit of a stretch – the remnants of the castle are the 16th century tower which is worth visiting. The gardens remain a highlight: the poison garden is sure to fascinate kids and adults alike and there’s a wide variety of horticultural delights to explore, including fern houses, tropical gardens, an arboretum and ice house.

Getting to Blarney Castle

The village of Blarney is roughly 8km north west of the city of Cork, and the journey takes about 15 minutes by car: the village (and castle) lie just off the N20. From Dublin, the journey takes 3-4 hours depending on traffic.

The 215 bus from Cork runs to Blarney Village semi-regularly, and package day trips from Dublin and Cork are also readily available. The nearest train station is Cork Kent.

History of Carnfree

The site was used by the O’Conor kings as an inauguration site. The O‘Conors were the high kings of Connacht, one of the four kingdoms of Ireland at the time) and also gave Ireland two of its final high kings Tairrdelbach Ua Conchobair (Turlough O’Conor) Ruaidrí Ua Conchobair (Rory O’Conor). The Annals of Connacht detail the role the site played in kingship ceremonies and inaugurations for the family. One 8th century text even claims St Patrick baptised princes on this spot.

The current O’Conor line lies with the descendants of Cathal Crobhdearg Ua Conchobair, Rory’s youngest brother and King of Connacht who lived in the Rathcroghan Area. The ‘Conchubhair Donn’, the senior member of the entire Síol Muireadaigh dynasty, likewise descends from Cathal Crobhdearg.

Rory O’Conor was the last ‘High King of Ireland’ and the only ‘King of Ireland’ to hold this title which was created during his reign before the Norman invasion. It was Rory’s invasion of Leinster which resulted in the exile of its king, Dermot MacMurrough, who invited the Normans to Ireland.

The site is also closely associated with early mythology, and particularly the Connacht champion Fráech who is said to live in the mound.

Carnfree today

Access to the site is limited as it’s on private land. Visits and guided tours can be arranged via the Rathcroghan Visitor Centre in Tulsk, but please don’t turn up to Carnfree unannounced as it’s a pain for the local residents and some consider it to be trespassing. As a result, don’t expect any amenities on site!

Predominantly you’ll be looking at mounds and barrows, likely used during inaugration ceremonies, which are certainly interesting to enthusiasts but not necessarily to everyone else…

Getting to Carnfree

Carnfree is located on a high ridge over the village of Tulsk. It’s about halfway between Castlerea and Strokestown, mostly easily accessed either via the N61 or the N5. Bus number 22 runs from Strokestown to Charlestown via Tulsk if you don’t have a car.

History of Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery

The graves are Carrowmore are thought to date back to around 3500BC: thirty tombs have been discovered, which makes Carrowmore the largest and oldest of Ireland’s megalithic complexes. The site is arranged around a cairn, Listoghil, in the centre, with the other tombs as ‘satellite tombs’ around this one.

Listoghil (also sometimes known as Tomb 51) is the only tomb where megalithic art and burials have been found – cremations are far more common. The satellite tombs tend to follow a similar layout – a central megalith surrounded by 5 upright stones, with a capstone on top enclosing a burial chamber, all facing towards the central cairn. Unlike other megalithic tombs, these were not passage tombs.

The monuments have lasted so well in large parts because of their foundations: they were packed into a small platform of earth and stone, locking them in place. The wider landscape of the Cuil Iorra peninsula contains an assortment of neolithic monuments.

Carrowmore was surveyed in the 1830s, and first exacavated in the 1880s. Modern exacavations were carried out in the 1970s, 80s and 90s by Swiss archaeologist Göran Burenhult to further understand the site.

Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery today

Carrowmore is run by Heritage Ireland today – the site is under public ownership and there’s now a permanent exhibition space housed in an old cottage on the site, which is extremely useful. All 30 of the tombs are on display to the public.

You can pick up self-guided tour leaflets in a variety of languages there: guided tours also run relatively regularly. The terrain can be quite uneven underfoot, and the site is exposed so wrap up warm (and bring waterproofs!) and wear sturdy shoes.

Getting to Carrowmore

Carrowmore is about 5km south west of the town of Sligo, in west Ireland: it’s most easily accessed by the R292, and is about 2km east of the Ransboro crossroads. Public transport is extremely limited in this part of Ireland, so you’re best off walking if you don’t have a car. It should take around an hour, and if you’re lucky, a passing local might take pity and take you some of the way.