Today, the Arch of Marcus Aurelius is the sole remaining structure from Roman era Oea, although the arch itself is well-preserved. Please note, it is advisable to check the official advice of your government’s foreign office before travelling to Libya.

Arch of Marcus Aurelius history

Oea was founded by the Phoenicians in the 7th century BC, likely attracted to the natural harbour there which was flanked by a small and easily defensible peninsula where they established their colony. The Greek rulers of Cyrene then claimed Oea but it was shortly after wrestled back by the Carthaginians.

By the later 2nd century AD, Oea was conquered by the Romans who included it in their province of Africa. The Romans left their mark on Oea by building a magnificent triumphal arch to their emperor, Marcus Aurelius, around 165 AD. The arch was dedicated not only to the emperor Marcus Aurelius but Lucius Verus, the emperor’s adoptive brother, to commemorate his victories during the Roman-Parthian War of 161-166 AD.

Comprised of a central stone dome held by flat slabs, the arch was erected entirely of expensive marble. The arch also stood at the intersection of the city’s main streets, dominating the route of travellers who would witness the triumphant might of the Roman Empire.

Oea, becoming Tripoli, was continuously occupied throughout the ancient to the modern period, meaning that many of the ancient buildings were used to build others or have since been buried beneath the newer city. After the Italian conquest during World War One, the site gained immediate attention and was restored.

Unfortunately, since 2017 the Arch of Marcus Aurelius has suffered from consistent visitor damage and the effects of acidic rain.

Arch of Marcus Aurelius today

In today’s city of Tripoli, visitors will find this monument to the ancient Roman presence in Oea nestled within a popular tourist spot. Guarded by a low fence and railing, you can get reasonably close to the triumphal arch to see the figures depicted either side of the gateway, believed to be the city’s deities Apollo and Minerva.

Surrounded by several great restaurants, the Arch of Marcus Aurelius is a must-see for any visitor to Tripoli, particularly in the evening lit up by the sunset.

Getting to the Arch of Marcus Aurelius

Situated just off Al-Shat Road by the port, the Arch of Marcus Aurelius is easily found when walking around Tripoli. Otherwise, the city bus station is a 10 minute walk away on Al-Rashid Street.

History of Cyrene

Traditionally said to have been founded by the Greeks of Thera in 631BC, Cyrene was a trading hub first inhabited by the Battiadae dynasty and which became one of the most important centres of the Greek world.

Over time, Cyrene was conquered several times yielding to, amongst others, Alexander the Great, before being Romanised in 74BC. Cyrene’s status and importance further flourished under Roman rule and was rebuilt under Hadrian. In fact, it was only after the great earthquake of 365AD and the region’s changing climate which eventually caused its decline.

Cyrene today

Amongst its fantastic remains, Cyrene is home to the ruins of the great sanctuary of Apollo which has sites ranging from the Temples of Artemis and Apollo which date back as early as the 7th century BC to the 2nd century Trajan Baths. Also found at Cyrene is the impressive Temple of Zeus.

One of its most impressive sites is Cyrene Amphitheatre, which the Greeks built in the 6th century BC, was used as a Roman amphitheatre and is now the largest Greek site in Africa.

There’s lots more to see at Cyrene including its acropolis, agora, forum and necropolis. Part of what makes Cyrene so incredible is not just its monuments but its overall planning – a mix of Greek and Roman, which is evident throughout.

Listed by UNESCO and protected by the Global Heritage Fund, sadly Cyrene is considered to be badly neglected. The UK’s FCO currently advises against all travel to Syria, and the current state and set-up at Cyrene is unknown: it’s not suitable for tourists at the current time.

History of Ghadames

Women were only allowed to travel on the main ‘streets’ when the men were at prayer – the rest of the time they had to travel across the rooftops.

Naturally, given the city’s location, one of the main functions of the city’s mercantile council was to ensure the efficient rationing of water. The people of Ghadames lived in this unique and extraordinary city for centuries with little change.

Its existence is first recorded in the 1st century BC by the Romans, who called it Cydamus, and its remoteness meant it survived political and military turmoil relatively unscathed.

The city was only abandoned quite recently, when Gaddafi built modern homes nearby for the population.

Ghadames Today

Today, several houses of the deserted town have been furnished and restored to give the handful of visitors an idea of what they were like to live in. You can also travel across the rooftops as the local women once did – but this can involve some fairly precarious crossings – not for the faint-hearted.

The Old Town of Ghadames enclosed by a wall was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986. It is at risk of damage and decay because of the effect of the nearby Libyan Civil War, and was thus also placed on the List of World Heritage in Danger in 2016.

Getting to Ghadames

Many people travel around a day from Tripoli then stay for a few days in Ghadames in order to get the best experience. It is best to find a local as a tour guide, otherwise you’ll either get lost or miss the various extraordinary sites on offer!

Leptis Magna history

Founded as early as the 7th century BC by Phoenicians of Tyre or Sidon, the ancient city of Leptis Magna was later settled by Carthaginians towards the end of the 6th century BC.

The city’s natural harbour at the mouth of the Wadi Labdah facilitated its growth as a major trade centre. It also became a market for agricultural production in the fertile coastland region. In 202 BC, near to the conclusion of the Second Punic War, it passed to Masinissa’s Numidian kingdom, from which it broke away in 111 BC to become an ally of Rome.

Septimus Severus who became emperor of Rome in 193 AD was born in Leptis Magna and hence became a patron of Leptis Magna. He invested heavily in developing his home city, transforming it into one of the most important of Africa’s Roman cities. Most of the remaining structures now found at the site are Roman and originate from the reign of Septimius Severus.

Over the following centuries, however, Leptis began to decline due to the increasing insecurity of the frontiers, culminating in a disastrous incursion in 363, and the growing economic difficulties of the Roman Empire. After the Arab conquest of 642, the status of Leptis as an urban centre effectively ceased, and it fell into ruin.

The ruins of Leptis Magna were pillaged throughout history, though for the most part, they lay buried by sand. Excavations began in the 1920s. At that time the Libyan Antiquities Service, as well as groups of Italian archaeologists, began labouring to preserve and study the site.

Leptis Magna today

Among the many remains found in Severus’ home city, the marketplace, Severan Basilica, the Forum, the Amphitheatre and the Severan Arch represent some of the best-preserved Roman sites in the Mediterranean.

These sites remain visible at the site despite the various invasions that befell Leptis Magna from the fourth century onwards, finally falling to the Hilalians in the eleventh century. Today, Leptis Magna is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Getting to Leptis Magna

Check the official advice of your country’s foreign office before considering travelling to Libya.

Sabratha history

Much like Leptis Magna, Sabratha itself was a Roman conquest rather than a Roman creation, starting life as a Phoenician city before becoming part of the Numidian Kingdom and eventually falling under Roman control. The city flourished throughout the 2nd and 3rd centuries before a series of elements combined to cause its decline and eventual abandonment.

A devastating earthquake struck Sabratha in the late 4th century (likely to have been around 365 AD) while the city suffered during the Vandal invasions and Byzantine Reconquest. Much of what can be seen at Sabratha today was partially or wholly reconstructed by the Italians in the early 20th century – particularly under Mussolini who gave speeches from the ancient theatre.

Sabratha today

Today, visitors can explore an impressive set of ruins, including the three-storey theatre, several temples and the remarkable remains of luxury Roman villas, which boast well preserved mosaics. Also found at Sabratha is the Byzantine-era Basilica of Justinian.

A good place to start your exploration is at the museum, which contains background information, exhibits and artefacts and is accessed with a $2 entry fee. Check the official advice of your country’s foreign office before considering travelling to Libya.

Getting to Sabratha

Sabratha site is situated 40 miles west of Tripoli and is found in the Zawia district of the ancient ‘three cities’ of Roman Tripoli. Best accessed by car, you will find Sabratha along the coastal road, an hour and a half drive from the modern city of Tripoli.

History of Saint Gilles Castle

Saint Gilles Castle was originally built by the governor of Tripoli as a Crusader fortress from 1103 to 1104. When the Mamluks set fire to the Mont Pelerin quarter in 1289, the castle of Saint Gilles lay abandoned for the next eighteen years.

A new fortification was needed as a stronghold for the sultan’s troops, and the governor chose the site of and the materials left behind from the gutted crusader castle to build a citadel.

In 1516, Syria and Egypt fell to the Ottoman Sultan Selin I. His son and successor Suleiman I made an inspection of his newly-conquered lands, and decided to fully rebuild the great citadel of Tripoli. Its construction was completed in 1521.

In the years that followed, successive Ottoman governors of Tripoli conducted restoration and renovation work on the citadel, and during the early 19th century, it was extensively restored.

Very little of the original Crusader structure survives, save a number of unidentified graves of Frankish knights.

It was because of the existence of the castle that the city of Tripoli was centred where it is now.

Saint Gilles Castle Today

Today, the castle is still used by the Lebanese military, and is an impressive structure with an imposing entrance, moat, and three gateways (one Ottoman, one Mamluk, one Crusader.)

Today, the citadel houses the Northern Lebanon and Akkar Museum, which holds a small number of items, including a numismatic collection which covers most periods from the Hellenics to Ayyubids. These items are well labelled by extensive information panels.

Visitors are advised to note the ‘mashhad’ (octagonal mausoleum) which was the centre of the Fatikid cemetery.

Views from the ramparts of Saint Gilles Castle are extensive and scenic.

Getting to Saint Gilles Castle

From the centre of Tripoli, the castle is a 10 minute drive via Mazhar Mikati. By foot, it takes around 15-20 minutes via El Amir Fakhreddine. For those who wish to enjoy the scenery, the coastline is only a little further away to the North West.