History of Baku

Whilst the area in Baku is thought to have been inhabited since the Stone Age, Baku itself rose to prominence as the Shirvani capital in 1191, following an earthquake which destroyed their original capital, Şamaxı.

At Baku, the Shirvani built a walled city including an impressive palace complex which was only completed in the 15th century. Much of this was destroyed over the centuries as it came under ongoing attack including by the Ottomans in 1585 and by the Russians in 1723 when it was razed by fire, after which Baku became part of the Russian empire in 1783.

Nevertheless, Baku’s rich history has endowed the area with a wealth of monuments ranging from 7th century structures to 15th century citadels, earning it a place on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites. In particular, Baku is famed for its 12th century Maiden Tower, which was once a fire temple and for the Shirvanshahs’ Palace, an imposing 15th century royal residence. Also notable are the 11th century Mehmet Masjid and the ancient market.

Baku today

The İçəri Şəhər (Old City) of Baku remains an exotic labyrinth of narrow streets, ancient buildings and historic sites. It’s divided into several quarters, named after either the mosque in that quarter or the primary occupation of those who lived and worked there. It’s a remarkable trip back in time to Medieval Baku, particularly given the shiny modern glass facades and Soviet-style blocks that litter the rest of the city.

Be sure to visit Baku’s Maiden Tower and the gorgeous Palace of the Shirvanshahs while you’re in town (both require tickets).

Getting to Baku

Baku is served by the Heydar Aliyev International Airport, with flights arriving regularly from all over Europe. The airport is a 30 minute drive from the centre of Baku. Intercity connections from within Azerbaijan run from Baku’s central station regularly.

History of Chirag Gala

Chirag Gala is located north of the capital city of Azerbaijan, Baku. It is an ancient fortress and was built by the Sassanid Persians in the 5th century AD. They situated the castle at the top of a mountain in the Guba Forest.

This meant it could function as a lookout post. Its inhabitants were able to warn allies of sudden enemy incursions by lighting its torches. This is the likely origin of its name “Chirag Gala”, which means “lamp castle” in Azerbaijani.

Chirag gala has the shape of an irregular rectangle and consists of 17 towers, which permit extensive views over the surrounding coastal plains. The fortress was part of a defensive system that included fortresses in Baku and Derbent.

Chirag Gala today

Chirag Gala was used as late as the 18th century as a defensive structure. Today Chirag Gala is a historic site in Azerbaijan that is often visited by tourists. Climbing to the top of the mountain is rewarded with great views of the surrounding landscape.

Getting to Chirag Gala

Chirag Gala is a two hour drive from the capital city of Baku. Visitors must climb over the rocky terrain to reach the castle, as it’s nearly impossible to get to Chirag Gala by vehicle from the base of the mountain. Guides also host day hikes from Baku.

History of Handaberd

According to the Armenian historian Movses Kaghankatvatsi, Handaberd was built by Prince Atnerseh of Khachen in the second quarter of the 9th century. Kaghankatvatsi’s 10th century History of the Country of Albania (no connection to the Balkan state) records the building’s name as “Handu berd”.

Atnerseh was possibly a member of the Siunua dynasty, which ruled over an area which corresponds to the historical Armenian province of Artsakh. Handaberd was Atnerseh’s primary residence, and it also served as a prison.

Handaberd was built on a high mountain ridge 600 metres from the right bank of the Levçay River. It is located over the Ayrım Gorge and is surrounded by forest. Nearby are caves where archaeologists have located early habitation by humans.

The fortress was substantially extended some time after its original construction. Handaberd belonged to the prince Hasan I Vakhtangyan between 1142 and 1182, according to an inscription on a memorial stele at a nearby Armenian monastery.

The castle features walls of average 1.3 metre thickness, five or six wells and is accessed by the castle’s main gate. There are smaller castles serving as satellites on surrounding mountains, including Pahak, Garavul and Jomard.

Handaberd is also known as Lev Castle, which is derived from the Armenian name for the Levçay River, and other names.

Handaberd today

Handaberd is a ruinous castle which features the remains of a monastery, an oven, the castle’s fortified walls and its gate. It is designated as a site which bears historical importance for the state of Azerbaijan. The castle’s location in the mountains means any ascent brings with it glorious views.

Getting to Handaberd

Handaberd is near the village of Knaravan in the Kalbajar District of Azerbaijan. It is located on a steep hill. Reaching the castle is achieved by travelling by foot along the south-west wall towards the gate on the north side.

History of Maiden Tower

The base of Maiden Tower is believed to date back to the 6th or 7th century, while the higher parts and the addition that juts out from the tower were built in around the 12th century.

Measuring 29.5 metres high and 16.5 metres in diameter, Maiden Tower probably initially served as a fire temple in its first incarnation before becoming a fortification in the 12th century. An inscription in the tower reading ‘Kubey Mesud ibn Da’ud’, who is thought to have designed the Mardakan Round Tower, has led historians to believe that this was the name of the Maiden Tower’s architect. The name Qiz Qalasi more directly translates as ‘Virgin Tower’ – a reference to its impenetrability rather than any female associations, although many will spin lovely stories and tell you otherwise.

The tower is remarkably solid, even for its day. The walls are 5m thick at the base, and it narrows slightly as it rises upwards – these solid walls and foundations have helped its longevity. The tower remains one of Azerbaijan’s national emblems and appears on currency.

Maiden Tower today

Today Maiden Tower, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, is open to the public. Visitors can climb its staircases, some original and some modern, to see its exhibits of old photographs and finish at its observatory, with magnificent views over the city.

There’s a small entrance fee to visit the tower. It’s open year-round, with hours varying slightly between summer and winter.

Getting to Maiden Tower

Maiden Tower is in the historic heart of Baku, walking distance from the other main sights. The nearest metro station is Icherisheher, a 10 minute walk away and buses stop on the street surrounding the old city.

History of the Palace of Sheki Khans

The Palace of Sheki Khans was a residence for the Sheki Khans and was built in 1797 by Muhammed Hasan Khan. The Sheki Khans controlled the city of Sheki as governors of the Zand and Qajar Persian dynasties until their annexation by the Russian Empire in 1813.

The Sheki Khan’s Palace is a two-story structure covered with a wooden, hipped roof with long eaves. The façade is covered by a mosaic of coloured glass set in a wooden lattice work that was assembled without nails or glue. Inside, the palace’s rectangular rooms are lavishly decorated with gold, mirror fragments and floral tiles and mosaics.

Interior walls also feature frescoes which date to the 18th century. They depict flowers and also hunting and battle scenes.

The palace is located in the city of Sheki. Sheki is situated at the base of the Greater Caucasus Mountains in Azerbaijan and is run through by the Gurjana River. Its architecture is influenced by Safavid, Qajar and Russian building traditions.

The Khan Palace is in the northeast of the city, behind the curtain walls of the Sheki Fortress. Along with other merchant houses, it demonstrates the wealth generated by silkworm breeding and the trade in silk cocoons in the late 18th century.

Palace of Sheki Khans today

The palace is the main historical site in Sheki and in 2019 became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Following restoration work, the palace is in good condition. There is an English speaking guide to help visitors tour the small site, though taking photographs is not allowed inside.

Getting to the Palace of Sheki Khans

The Palace of Sheki Khans can be reached by a slightly uphill walk from the town centre. Taxi or minibus can be used to travel to Sheki from the capital city of Baku, which takes around four hours.

History of Sheki Fortress

Sheki Fortress was substantially built during the reign of Sheki Khan Haki Celebi (1743-1755). Sheki Fortress was the khan’s citadel in Sheki (or Shaki), which was the capital of the Sheki Khanate until absorbed by the Russian Empire in the 19th century. The fortress features northern and southern gates, and numerous defensive bastions.

Approximately 40 buildings were constructed inside the fortress walls, which extend to some 1,300 metres, at 2.2 metres thick. Sheki Fortress once included a winter palace, residences for the khan’s family and servant’s quarters. At the height of the khanate, the fortress contained public and commercial structures of the city.

Only the palace of the Sheki khans remains, along with its pool and plane trees. The Khan’s Palace was built in 1797 by Muhammed Hasan Khan to house the rulers of Sheki. It was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019.

The fortress was restored extensively between 1958 and 1963. Sheki itself is a small city near the forests of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. The town’s name is derived from the ancient tribe that inhabited the region, known as “sakas”.

Sheki Fortress today

While there is little that remains of Sheki Fortress today except its impressive walls, the fortress site contains the UNESCO-listed Khan’s Palace. Views over the surrounding landscape are possible from the castle walls. Sheki is also known for its Islamic architecture, history related to the Silk Road and its food.

The grounds of the fortress also include a café and shops selling local crafts.

Getting to Sheki Fortress

Sheki can be reached from the capital city of Baku by taxi and minibus, which takes about four hours. The train station is located 11 miles from the city centre, so a taxi or bus is necessary to complete the journey.

Originally constructed by the ruler Shirvanshah Khalilulla I and his son, Faruk, Shirvanshahs’ Palace had both royal and religious significance. However, Shirvanshahs’ Palace is somewhat incomplete as construction was halted in 1501 when Faruk was killed in battle.

Nevertheless, Shirvanshahs’ Palace remains one of Baku’s main sites and is a UNESCO World Heritage site, described as “one of the pearls of Azerbaijan’s architecture”.

Shirvanshahs’ Palace history

Under Ibrahim I of the Shirvanshah dynasty during the 15th century, the capital was moved from Shemakha to Baku following an earthquake. Ibrahim committed himself to building a palace, and the chosen site is believed to have once been a sacred worship site and tomb of a Sufi saint. Wells inside the palace have since been thought to have healing properties.

The palace fell into ruin when the Sufis were expelled by the Safavids in 1501. In the second half of the 16th century, war broke out again – this time between the Safavids and the Ottoman Empire. The Turkish Ottomans conquered Baku in 1578 and begun restoring the palace. Turkish pashas lived there until the 17th century.

Shirvanshahs’ Palace was also severely damaged in the 18th century during the Russian invasion of 1723 by Peter I when the city was bombed. The Russian military partially renovated the palace, but destroyed many of the Arabic features.

Shirvanshahs’ Palace today

Upon first entering Shirvanshahs’ Palace, visitors go into a central courtyard through which they can access the residential parts of the palace. Much of the Shirvanshahs’ Palace is in ruins and other aspects were subject to thorough renovations, not all of them entirely sympathetic.

However, Shirvanshahs’ Palace contains many beautiful and authentic structures and inscriptions, particularly in the Throne Room and the Bayil Stone Friezes, rescued by the Soviets from the sea and installed in the palace museum. The structure also includes the palace mosque, the mausoleum of the Shirvanshahs and the tomb of Seyyid Yəhya Bakuvi, the court astrologer.

Getting to Shirvanshahs’ Palace

The easiest way of reaching Shirvanshahs’ Palace is using public transport: the Red Line metro stops at Icherisheher, only minutes walk from the palace. Alternately, buses 6, 18, 53, 65 and 205 stop at Icherisheher Street, only 8 minutes away. There is also car parking at Icheri Sheher.