History of Angkor Wat

Whilst the complex in Angkor is believed to have been founded circa 980 AD by Yasovarman I, king of the Khmer Dynasty, Angkor Wat itself is thought to date back to the 12th century. It was the Khmer king Suryavarman II who built Angkor Wat between 1113 and 1150. He dedicated it to the Hindu deity Vishnu and there are images of Suryavarman as Vishnu throughout Angkor Wat in the form of sculptures. Angkor Wat is also thought to be an earthly representation of Mount Meru, the divine abode of the Hindu gods. It is also thought that Angkor Wat was the site of Suryavarman’s tomb.

Angkor Wat was sacked in the late 12th century, and after that began to be converted from a Hindu site to a Buddhist one. It was largely neglected after the 16th century but never fully abandoned. The French explorer Henri Mouhot ‘rediscovered’ the site in 1860 and popularised it in the Western imagination through his writings.

France claimed Cambodia as a protectorate shortly afterwards and invaded Siem Reap, partly in an attempt to gain control of the ruins. Throughout the 20th century a major restoration project was undertaken at Angkor Wat, and displays and replicas of Angkor Wat were displayed back in France, to much acclaim and awe.

Despite the turbulent politics of late 20th century Cambodia, very little damage was done to Angkor Wat. It was art thieves from Thailand who caused severe damage, lopping heads off whatever structures they possibly could. Angkor Wat has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1992.

Angkor Wat today

Angkor Wat is unsurprisingly one of Cambodia’s most popular tourist sites. There is an incredible amount to see and it’s a good (although relatively expensive) idea to get a licensed tour guide.

You’ll need time to explore the whole complex – allow for half a day minimum if you want to explore the site fully. Sunrise or sunset are good times to go, avoiding the heat of the day and the worst of the visitors, otherwise lunchtime – whilst hot – is often slightly quieter. Angkor Wat is a sacred site, so dress respectfully and cover up – shoulders should be covered and knee-length shorts and skirts are best, if not full length. Do not climb on the structures or go into places which are clearly marked as forbidden.

Getting to Angkor War

Angkor Wat is just outside the city of Krong Siem Reap. Getting here is straight forward – head north out of town on Charles de Gaulle Road and you’ll hit the temple complex. Hop on a tuktuk or taxi to get there – the journey shouldn’t take more than 15 or 20 minutes.

History of Choeung Ek Killing Fields

Located around 17 kilometres south of the Phnom Penh city centre, Choeung Ek was used as a ‘re-education camp’ by the Khmer Rouge, the communist party which ruled Cambodia between 1975 and 1979. Over 1.7 million people were murdered at the hands of the Khmer Rouge over the course of the time they were in power: the regime carried out a campaign of mass genocide against anyone suspected of belonging to several categories of supposed enemies.

Prisoners were held and tortured at the S-21 prison, before being transported to the former longan orchard. Approximately 17,000 people are believed to have been killed and buried at Choeung Ek. In 1980, the remains of over 9,000 people were exhumed from a mass grave – many of their remains (including 8000 skulls) form the centrepiece of the memorial site at Choeung Ek, in the form of a Memorial Stupa,

Many of the graves remain untouched out of respect, but fragments of bone, teeth and bloodied cloth can be seen on the site. 9 May is marked with a memorial ceremony every year at the stupa where Khmer Rouge survivors and their relatives, officials and Cambodians come to pay their respects and remember what happened.

Choeung Ek Killing Fields today

There’s no denying a visit to Choeung Ek is bleak: the extremely informative and often harrowing audio tour is well worth listening to, although it’s worth thinking about the appropriateness of the material for children and younger teenagers. There’s a particularly grim account by an ex guard and executioner at Choeung Ek. The site is a memorial, so dress and act respectfully – particularly avoid taking photos of the human remains on display if possible.

The small on site museum focuses on the wider history of the Khmer Rouge and attempts to bring them to justice later. It’s worth spending time here prior to visiting if you don’t already know some of Cambodia’s wider history.

Getting to Choeung Ek Killing Fields

The site is helpfully well signposted – it’s about 10km south of central Phnom Penh. The journey should take about half an hour by taxi (and slightly longer by moto-taxi) – most taxis will do a round-trip over half a day for about $10, although you might have to bargain with them. Some shuttle buses, including the Hop On Hop Off tour, operate routes to and from Choeung Ek.

History of Preah Vihear Temple

The earliest history of the site of the Preah Vihear Temple can be traced to the ninth century AD, although the temple itself, which can be seen today, mostly dates to the eleventh century.

The Preah Vihear Temple was built by the leaders of the Khmer Empire, firstly by King Suryavarman I (1002-50) and then expanded upon by Suryavarman II (1113-50).

Made up of a series of sanctuaries known as “gopuras” and well-preserved elaborate stone buildings, perhaps the most impressive aspect of the Preah Vihear Temple is its location, set high atop the Dângrêk Mountains.

However, this stunning location is also one of the reasons why the Preah Vihear Temple is less oft visited than other Angkorian sites like its younger counterpart, Angkor Wat. The ownership of the Preah Vihear Temple has long been a subject of contention between Cambodia and Thailand, and almost led to war.

Preah Vihear Temple today

Officially, the Preah Vihear Temple is based in Cambodia, although the site is more easily reached from Thailand. Soldiers from both sides are still posted at the site and it is still quite a volatile area. In 2008, UNESCO listed the Preah Vihear Temple, which was also a contentious issue.

Getting to Preah Vihear Temple

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum history

The Khmer Rouge was a faction of Cambodia’s communist party, led by Pol Pot, which was in power from 1975 to 1979. In only four years, they undertook a campaign of mass genocide in which over two million people perished.

Whilst most victims were taken to the Killing Fields to be murdered, the site of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum also played a central role in the atrocities. Over 17,000 people were taken to Prison S-21, where they were subjected to forced labour and torture.

S-21 was used to hold prisoners before they were to be taken to the Killing Fields, but many died of starvation, disease and torture before they met this fate. The prison was uncovered by the invading Vietnamese in 1979 and was reopened in 1980 as a museum.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum today

Visitors to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum can view the building in a similar state to that as it was after the fall of the Khmer Rouge, with signs of the torture undertaken visible throughout. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum displays a moving exhibit of victims’ photographs – taken as they arrived at the prison – as well as many of their stories. Guided tours can be arranged at the site.

Getting to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

The entrance to the museum is on 113 Street on the corner of 350 in Phnom Penh. The closest bus stop is along route 1 and is Monivong / Road 360 stop 35.