History of Aptera

Founded around the 7th century BC, Aptera became one of the most important cities of western Crete and grew into a thriving centre for much of the Hellenic and Roman periods. The city continued to be inhabited into the Byzantine age before a combination of natural disaster and external attacks forced its abandonment, which is dated to 823 AD.

In the 12th century, the monastery of St John the Theologian was established; the reconstructed monastery is the centre of the site. Excavations have exposed the remains of a fortified tower, a city gate and a massive wall that surrounded the city. You can also see Roman cisterns, an amphitheatre and a 2nd-century-BC Greek temple.

At the western end of the site, a Turkish fortress, built in 1872, enjoys a panoramic view of Souda Bay. The fortress was built as part of a large Turkish fortress-building program during a period when the Cretans were in an almost constant state of insurrection. Notice the ‘Wall of the Inscriptions’ – this was probably part of an important public building and was excavated in 1862 by French archaeologists.

Aptera today

Today as well as the impressive Roman cisterns, visitors to Aptera can explore a number of fascinating ruins at the site including Roman baths, villas and an ancient theatre – though this is not currently accessible as it is under excavation and possible restoration (since Sept 2013).

The archaeological site also includes a small ancient temple most likely dedicated to the goddess Demeter as well as the ruins of early churches. There is a small museum at the site which expands the history of Aptera and is situated within the surviving 12th century monastery.

A World War Two German machine gun post can also be viewed nearby along with a 19th century Turkish castle.

Getting to Aptera

The ancient site of Aptera is located in western Crete, a kilometre inland from the southern shore of Souda Bay, about 13 km east of Chania in the municipality of Akrotiri. If travelling from the island’s capital Heraklion (Airport), simply take the 90/E75 westbound along the coast for 130 kilometres until you reach the site. This trip should take no longer than 2 hours.

Gortnya history

During the Roman period, Gortyna was the capital city of Crete and as such, a number of important temples and buildings were built here. Gortyna stood on a plain watered by the river Lethaeus, and at a distance of 90 stadia from the Libyan Sea with its two harbours, Lebena and Metallum, and is mentioned by numerous ancient writers including Pliny the Elder. 

Gortyna’s former prosperity is evident throughout this site, especially in the inscription of its Gortyn Law Code on the Odeon building, dating back to the 6th century BC and which is the longest of its kind. This important city was next to Knossos in importance and splendour; these two great towns leagued together to reduce all of Crete to submit to them.

Gortyna was also an important Christian site and the ruin of the 7th century Basilica of St Titus marks it as such. Unfortunately destroyed by the Saracens in 824 AD, Gortyna is now an archaeological site.

Gortnya today

Today part of the modern town of Gortyn, Gortnya is a major archaeological site which has been excavated since the 1880s. The remains of the significant Roman settlement can still be seen today, and the Temple of Pythian Apollo is a particularly notable ruin, whose outline is identifiable as is its stepped altar.

Getting to Gortnya

Located in south central Crete in the fertile Mesara plain, Gortnya is about 40 minutes drive south of Heraklion, on the same road to Phaistos and Matala. Gortyna is 1 kilometre past the village of Agii Deka, at the side of the main road.

The highlight of the Heraklion Archaeological Museum is possibly its extensive Minoan collection, being one of the most comprehensive in the world and including everything from sarcophagi to wall art. The Minoan culture is specifically attributed to the island of Crete and immediately preceded the Mycenaean period.

Spread over twenty rooms, the Heraklion Archaeological Museum houses a myriad of archaeological artefacts excavated around Crete, including from Knossos.

Heraklion Archaeological Museum history

The first archaeological collection in Heraklion was created in 1883 when Crete was still under Ottoman occupation. This collection was created by Joseph Hatzidakis and was housed in two rooms in the yard of the cathedral church of Heraklion Town, the church of Saint Minas. When Crete was set free, this collection was donated to the Greek State. The collection grew with donations and findings from excavations around Crete which made relocation necessary.

The first room of the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion was constructed in 1904-1907 on the ruins of the Catholic Monastery of Saint Francis that had been totally destroyed by the earthquake of 1856. A second room was later added and finally, in 1937 the present building was constructed with designs of the architect Patroklos Karantinos.

These designs were innovative for its era and included natural lighting, additional rooms for new findings, a library, and a storehouse.

Heraklion Archaeological Museum today

The museum’s exhibition contains more than 15,000 artefacts, covering a period of 5,000 years, from the Neolithic era to the Graeco Roman period.

The exhibits, collected from excavations carried out in all parts of Crete, come mainly from the prehistoric era and form a valuable record of the artistic, social and economic life of the island during the ancient period.

The permanent exhibits include examples of pottery in a variety of practical yet imaginative shapes, household utensils, tools, weapons and sacred axes, carefully and ingeniously made and frescoes, which, with their harmoniously drawn figures and colourful compositions, give insight into a world characterized by tenderness, vitality, sensitivity and charm, a world which took a simple yet intense joy in life and nature. Highlights include the Minoan statues from Knossos and the Phaistos Disc.

Getting to Heraklion Archaeological Museum

There is a paid car park at the port in front of the old Venetian ship yards that is a 15 minute walk away. The museum is a 10 minute drive from Heraklion Airport.

Knossos history

Knossos reached its peak in the period from the 19th to the 14th centuries BC, as the capital of the Minoan civilisation. It was at this time that the majority of its incredible buildings, the remains of which can be seen today, were constructed, although it suffered large-scale destruction sometime between 1500 and 450 BC.

Later populated by the Mycenaeans, Knossos experienced a resurgence in the Hellenistic period and was occupied by the Romans in 67 BC. In addition to being a prosperous city, Knossos was also been the setting for many mythical stories, including those of the Minotaur, Ikaros and Daidalos.

Excavated and vastly reconstructed in the 19th century by archaeologist Arthur Evans, Knossos has revealed a wealth of ancient treasures, not least of which are its many fascinating ruins available to see today.

Knossos today

Today, the most famous of these is the Knossos Palace, also known as the Labyrinth for its incredible maze of passageways and rooms. A guided tour takes around an hour and a half.

Believed to date back to 2000 to 1350 BC, Knossos Palace is thought to have been the home of King Minos, an iconic monarch of the island of Crete who legend says was the son of the deities Europa and Zeus. The Palace of Knossos contains a myriad of rooms, including banqueting halls, religious shrines and even a throne room, all centred on a courtyard.

Other important buildings at Knossos include the 14th century BC Royal Villa with its pillar crypt, the Little Palace, believed to date back to the 17th century BC, the ornately decorated House of Frescos and the Villa of Dionysos, a 2nd century BC house from the Roman period. The drainage system at Knossos is also fascinating in its own right, indicating an incredible level of sophistication.

The great thing about Knossos is that its reconstruction has meant that it’s easy to identify the original use of each part of the site. However, it’s best to take a guidebook, a map or even a guide if you want a better idea of the site as a whole, particularly as it is indeed a labyrinth.

Getting to Knossos

Take bus 2 which will be marked ‘Knossos’ from Plateia Eleftherias Square bus stop at the Astoria Hotel in downtown Heraklion. The buses come every 20 minutes or so and the trip takes about 20 minutes.

History of Lato

Lato was a city state, believed to have been built by the Dorians in a defensible position between two peaks and flourished during the Hellenic period. Archaeologists are not entirely sure when the city dates from, the majority of the ruins are Dorian (5th and 4th centuries BC), hence why this is generally who its construction is attributed to.

Lato was also the birthplace of Nearchos, the admiral of Alexander the Great. It’s believed the city was named after the goddess Leto, who some believed was the mother of Artemis and Apollo. By the time of the rise of Rome, the city’s harbour to the east soon came to be of more prominence than the original settlement and slowly the institutions and administrative centre of the settlement were moved there, leaving the original city to slowly decline.

The city was destroyed around 200BC, but its port remained intact. Excavations began here around the turn of the 20th century, and lasted until the 1970s.

Lato today

Today the site is quite well preserved and contains the remains of houses, the agora, temples, ancient cisterns, basements, a theatre and latter threshing floor. The site has not been troubled by modern restorations and therefore contrasts very well with more open construction of Knossos and Malia.

An interesting site, Lato is well worth a visit if you’re in the area and also offers excellent views.

Getting to Lato

The Ancient City of Lato is towards the easterly end of Crete, a few kilometres inland from the coast. You’ll need a car to get there: it’s a half hour drive or so from Malia and buses stop at Kritsa, 3km away.